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Code 14 is ignition: 'No IGF signal to ECM (=ECU) for 4-7 consecutive IGT signals (=ignition signal) with engine speed less than 3000rpm.' Can be: - Open or short in IGF (ignition confirmation signal) circuit from igniter to ECM - Igniter - ECM (=ECU) Check the TSRM page EG-519 and...

Why not run a second feed and switch the second pump at boost? You'll get the most from both pumps that way and you know for sure you'll have enough juice to feed the 800's.

A tip for the next one doing a loom extention; don't cut the wires all at the same place, you'll get a big hump in the loom which makes it more difficult to feed through the car, so spread the connections out over 15" or so. The more important thing is that if you tape it up with the connections...

Any idea how much whp you're generating when cruizing on a flat highway @75% throttle?

Well I guess my english sucks then cause that's what I also said...

This is how I've done it. I had it in this position before because the stock position is taken by a dummy which houses my car alarm. There's no problem of the ecu heating up, I've had it here for years with no problems. And also in the mkiv this is the stock position. You do need to extend the...

I think it would work fine, pressure in a fluid distributes evenly in a volume and you still would have enough feed from both sides in max. conditions. I'd say smart thinking sir! I have these Sard 800's on a modified stock rail (welded return in the middle)

Top of my head I'd say black is ground and grey is your signal, but I need to check that. (I'm running the same bosch O2)

I was referring to conditions outside closed loop and when putting max. load on the engine. The 12 to 12.5 where you make best power is then leaner than the 10.5 or even richer most people run at say 75% throttle and up, but an engine won't survive this. Sorry if that wasn't clear. And yes...

Don't forget to put the correct tension on the tension roll with a spanner, else you will end up with a belt that is just a little too long ;-)

Correct, most power is being made around 12 to 12.5 A/F, but your engine won't survive. The only reason to dump in more fuel is to cool things down. I'm talking pump gas here.

I will be running the wiring to the passenger side today. But I have an extended loom; I have had the jz engine in for a couple of years already. I just go this route to clean up my engine bay and avoid the hot turbo side. (I've seen melted wire looms on some big singled jz swaps.) Actually the...

A few threads back EvilEmpire 1.3GTE described how to route the 1jz wire loom if you don't want to extend it. I thought it was a nice idea to clean up the engine bay and the added benefit will be that the loom doesn't have to go past the hot turbo side. As I was in the process of putting my...

That's a very nice idea! :thumbup: I have had my 1.5jz out for a rebuild, but haven't put the intake on yet. I'll do this just to clean up the engine bay and also the loom doesn't have to go through the hot turbo side of the engine bay.

Ehm, to calculate load, like the ecu does, air temp is part of the formula... It might work without it, but it won't be optimal.

You're not the most subtle person when it comes to handling your engine are you? :icon_wink LOL!

Fuelcut at higher boost; ecu sees same voltage but actual boost pressure is higher.

You measure when the engine is cold, but when things get hot they expand, that's what's the clearance for. The expansion could be bigger than your clearance if it's too tight and then the valves don't close properly anymore and you will be losing power. That's why it's best not to go below...

Yes it is.

Never seen that color interior before. What's the color of the car btw, it's hard to tell with all the reflections.