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It is 14ft lbs, but it is not just a 'put them in and torque 'm down'. There's a sequence of three turns you need to follow to properly install them, all bearing caps are also installed in a certain order. Download the 2jz tsrm and look up 'Engine' page EG-65 and further.

For the powergoal you want, even a 63mm would suffice. And if you want reliabillity you want the least parts as possible > less chance of anything failling, also the more electronics, the more troubles getting it right. And up to 720cc injectors you don't need to worry about idling or mileage...

Yeah you're right, didn't think of that, but do you know which one is the flow order? I'd say it's #2, but I'm not sure, don't know how it all flows internally.

Feed runs from the underbody hardline to the pulse dampener which is mounted on the left motor mount. From there it is a sort of flexible hardline (it can twist) with a banjo to the rail at back of the block. The return line is at the front of the block, where the fpr is.

Wouldn't it heat up the oil again before entering the engine? Maybe I don't get it, but what is the stock flow order of the oil? 1 oil pump - watercooled plate - filter - engine 2 oil pump - filter - watercooled plate - engine

So, where does the watercooled plate that the jz engines have fit in? I mean the metal piece in the picture where the filter is mounted to. Do we delete this? (For the record, I normally run Apexi or TRD filters like Youp said, didn't know the Fram filters were that bad though, never will use...

It's a real pain to get the aem to read the crank signal correctly of a vvti because the crank signal wheel is a missing tooth type. I know Arnout from supras.nl has managed to get it working, but I don't know how he did it. The vvti system however is very good manageable with the aem.

here you go

So you remove the stock watercooled plate? I don't like that because it gets the oil to operating temp as quickly as possible. With this replaced by an aftermarket thermostatic adapter it will take a lot more time for the oil to get to operating temp and thus more wear. Ideally I would like...

Where would you mount the thermostat plate; in front or behind the stock watercooled plate?

Can't be that, check my post #16, it has to be the ignition. Bigaaron has a point there, the SARD's are low impedance. Did you take out the resistorpack? And checking all plugs will indeed tell you which cylinder it is. The plug type is ok and gap should be ok too, but could try a bit...

Care to elaborate?

That wouldn't be a problem. The problem with the stock springs is that at higher revs, say 6500 - 7000 and up, they can't keep up with the higher lift and aggressive lobe anymore and will start to float. As long as you don't rev the shit out of it you can drive around with them, no problem.

What plugs do you run and what are they gapped at? As it's one cylinder it must be ignition related, find out which cylinder it is and check the whole circuit back to the ecu from there. (Where about do you live in holland, im in the haarlem neighbourhood, could help you out if you want to.)

1j is coil on plug, klootviool ;-)

copy-paste from SF: It's not that hard, just quite some work to get to them. I assume the head is still on the block. - take out the cams, follow the tsrm for that - on the piston you will be working on; remove the sparkplug and turn the piston to bdc. - feed a long enough rope into the...

I've put a link in my sig ;-)

Didn't know that. I can imagine it's a similar pulsating signal, but didn't know this would work. I can also imagine this signal generating a speed cut if the frequency is high enough.

Yes, it is stationary, but it's to compensate for the flex like viperkillertt said. That's why I said it moves a little bit, maybe I should have been more elaborate.

bicycle shop; they're used on the cables for braking. I did the same for my 1.5jz