Search results

I didnt think that looked very familar to me. Thanks for the tip BWB. From the pic you posted it looks like you will need N/A accelerator cable linkage from a Supra to make it work.

Speedo works, no codes present and fluid at normal level and bright color. When I first go tthe car it wouldnt hold 1 gear very long. Would usually shift at 10-15 MPH if not WOT. All shifts were as firm as those of an Avalon. Also would not downshift except for out of OD into 3rd. Had the...

I have expirienced the condition you are refering to but it was a constant thing on the vehicle. This only happens when the car is coming from a cold start. It has been a problem ever since I got the car. Was doing it before I started adjusting the cable. Locking the cable out had no affect on...

The cable adjustment made no difference in shift points. All the cable did was give it firmer feel. Didnt change the shift points at all. The TPS did correct many of my shifting problems that I was having. The cold shift point thing just wont go away as well as the delyed WOT 1/2 shift.

I understand the temprature and convertor lock up. Not an issue at all for me. The trans literally will not shift out of 1st gear until after 4500 RPM until it goes through 2 shift cycles. Once it goes through 2 cycles it will shift depending on throttle position as it is supposed to. Got...

Have been fighting with my transmission shift points since I got this car. After getting the TPS cleaned and properly set the shift points at part throttle are right were they should be. Downshifts into proper gears and all. Have locked the line pressure adjustment open for a firmer shift. When...

So much abuse in one thread.

Will work out fine. (the spark plugs cant read the numbers on the wires)

I would suggest testing/replacing the thermostat and then making sure I had good flow through the radiator.

Place your nut back on the tie rod stud to protect the threads. Leave it loose so it has room to fall. At the red arrow, insert a prybar or long screwdriver and apply pressure. At the yellow arrow strike metal surface of your spindle with a metal hammer. After second or third strike it should...

Check the lower control arm bushings for the rubbing/knocking. Willing to bet they are worn and that is causing the problem.

Not the smartest thing to do but if a different idle is all you get out of it, you should feel lucky. A discharged/shorted battery can cause all sorts of problems.

For the gauge cluster, check your dimmer rheostat. For the reverse lights, the most common causes are the NSS/reverse switch or the bulb board ground points.

I must say congrats. Hope you have many more to come.

Very nice nice numbers. Once the AFR is bumped I would enjoy a car setup like that.

I looked into the AEM V2 specifically. I am not sure that I would want to put that on the Supra. Toyota already put a similar system in our intake manifold. This pipe could counter affect our ACIS.

What were you wiring up when you noticed they stopped woking? What else isnt working?

Upper A arms are available aftermarket. Its the lower ones that arent. Give me a call at the store and I can get you a quote on the uppers.

From what I have been able to determine the Mid 90-ish Civic and Accord kits can be modded to fit our cars. I am running a Civic kit myself and got good results from it.

I'll take that as a compliment.