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Test the ISC (Idle Speed Controller), probably wouldn't hurt to dismantle it and clean it out. Inspect the ISC's harness. Test the TPS' IDL switch. That's where I'd start. EDIT: I'd also test the ECUs coolant temp sensor.

Which, interestingly enough, may explain why I posted the information for the only relays I know of in that area. :icon_razz

Wait, didn't I already cover all of that? Yeah, I did: Seriously though, 87SupraTurbo19, don't feel too bad I almost posted the same thing a very, very long time ago... Luckily I spared myself the embarrassment and caught myself just in time. :biglaugh:

Didn't listen to it... does the clicking sound like a relay? http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=22

I don't think it could be said to be consistently one size at all really. When I had to patch mine with a piece of fresh pipe we used a 2.25" pipe (I think that was OD, by the way). One side fit perfectly the other actually had to be filled a bit... If this is being asked for a repair job, I'd...

Yeah, that occurred to me right after I posted. :icon_razz

If you're referring to the VAF, I'm disinclined to agree. At least in the case of acceleration. If the signal's coming across lower than it should due to wear and the ECU's running closed loop, you'll go rich as hell. Given that the VAF uses a wiper it doesn't necessarily degrade evenly.

OH! You even had me confused as to what you meant about the return spring... OP, test the VAF (AFM) with the car's ignition on but the engine off check to see that you're getting an even and steady voltage scale from the VS line as you manually move the vane. It should start at around 4.8v...

At idle or with the throttle open? ;)

2.25" (measured).... except where it's not. ;)

You MUST set the ECU for the diagnostic mode by jumping the two red contacts indicated here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx Timing instructions: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=20 EDIT: Damn I'm getting slow... This whole work...

Yup, should be open when the vane is closed.

I'd just drive it normally for a day or two (highway and city). It's not going to get the thing as spotless as flushing it with really nasty detergents, but it'll help remove a decent amount of the garbage that's just sitting in there.

Precisely how loose were the under torqued head bolts? And how hard you been driving the car? Generally, if you've had it machined and checked the block deck when you swapped it... and you're not going to be bolting on a turbo anytime soon, I'd probably leave it.

Careful on having it inspected for leaks... no inspection plate on the W58. I think they'll have to pull the tranny part way to really check the input shaft seal. Half the time a flush is a rip... personally, I'd just fill it with some cheap gear oil for a day or two, then drain that and...

I'm not sure how likely this is though... but it's worth asking. How much clearance is there between the baffles and the oil pickup? If there's any chance the pickup got hit the pipe could have been creased creating a restriction you may not see until at higher loads.

Here's the part number for the taped up hose: 17346-42020 It lists for $80 something, but you can get one here: http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=213747 for $67. Inexpensive alternatives: If both sides are the same diameter you could probably get one of these to fit...

Indeed, but so do engine fires... so I wouldn't just assume that because it happens to someone else it's fine. ;) I'd would check master cylinder levels, then change out the oil and then take it to a shop for a look over. I do like MT-90, BTW.

Straight cut gear and no syncros, IIRC, not 100% sure I'm not a transmission guy. Pop the tranny into first real quick, then shift... a LOT of cars are like that. It's nothing new. I never get a grind when I try to go into reverse and the clutch pressed though.

I wouldn't pull the head back off unless you don't mind buying yet another HG. Composites don't usually like it once torqued down... if you used a tacking agent (ie copper spray or hylomar) forget about reusing that HG completely.