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I can't remember or figure out where the heck I took these off of. Does anyone recognize them? :aigo:

I've ground a bunch off of the power steering pump bracket. I still have the motor out of the car. I measured the height of the SHCS that go into the fittings on the coolant lines (which are in the engine bay, I don't see a way of removing the fittings or hoses from the bay without destroying...

so what did you end up going with?

Anyone run Megan track series on their MK3?

Thanks for that info. I almost have my stock twins off of the manifolds. It is taking forever. I plan on taking measurements once everything is off but I could tell that the piping going into the front turbos compressor had a bit of oil residue, while that on the rear turbo was all clean...

Are there any? Without actually running a turbocharger are there ways of visual inspection (without turbo disassembly) to ensure sound operation?

or not. Im not seeing one turbo coming off by itself. In order to do that, all of the studs would have to come off that are joining a particular turbo to the y-pipe. If I could take those off, there'd be no reason to take off the turbo(s). So in other words, the whole turbo system needs...

i figured as much. To me its looking like the rear turbo would require the least work. Would you agree?

Has anyone done this while keeping the turbos on the car? Is this possible? I've only been able to remove 2 of the studs on the y-pipe that hold it to the turbines. I don't see how in the hell I'll be able to get to the studs that are on the "motor side" of the y-pipe. Any tips/ advice would...

really smooth, well done

Mr. Poodles, Thanks for your recent reply in regards to DDPs. I was wondering if you could enlighten me on the 1J y-pipe? Doesn't the stock motor (1JZGTE) have a pipe like this that vents from both turbines to exhaust, or is one such as what Raptor Racing is offering required in order to...

Ok basic question here, can a DDP be utilized on a sequential twin turbo setup? (Stock 1JZGTE)

If the compressor won't go on b/c the stud is blocked at the exit/entrance of the stud bore by the 7m head, how do you put the stud back in? Grinding the bracket makes sense, just by looking at it and the fittings on the 7M I knew it would be really tight. Thanks for the tip.

Why not throw a DDP and traditional DP into some CFD software and give it a whirl.

Thanks guys! I knew I had read the manual somewhere but I couldnt remember or find which one had the instructions. Will let you know how it goes (and post pics)!

I swapped out the heads, but with the 7M head on the 1J compressor, the head blocks the mounting stud that you slide the compressor onto. What do you do just hack off the end of the stud so it doesn't interfere?

Ive got the timing belt pulley off, and am staring at the seal. How do I get the front main seal off without taking the oil pump off of the motor? I will have to pretty much destroy the seal right?

surely one musnt have to remove the oil pump to change out the front main seal??

This may seem like a numskull question to most, but if you are re-using a timing belt, why do you have to place matchmarks on the timing belt and camshaft timing pulleys? Every part of the belt will eventually pass the same points on the pulleys right? I must be missing something very basic.

That's what I thought. Now just to get the damn camshaft timing gear off. I orded the freakin SST I'm not messing around with this one.