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So I connect the blue wire w/ red dots from the #1 circle above, to the #9 on the EA2, right?

So when you say ensure that adjustment bolts are free, do you mean check to make sure none of them are rusted/frozen?

Which Vancouver dealership are you referring to? Champion Toyota in Houston is asking $150 ea., granted this thread is now over two years old so w/ inflation $150 is probably spot on.

Can anyone offer some insight on this?

Thanks Boris. So I'd want to stick w/ the 35 sidewall on those as opposed to a 40 w/ these sizes right? (Front: 18x9 +30 w/ 245/35/18's, Rear: 18x10 +38 w/ 275/35/18's)

So do you replace the wire going to IG1 pin 11 with the wire you run from the IG- diagnostic port or just tap into it, leaving the original wire in place? Ahh crap just noticed thread was started for 2J I have a 1JZ, is it any different for the two motors?

I've tried using an 89+ 7M-GTE tach with my 1JZ (cut black wire w/ red dots) and ran directly to pin 6 of connector A on my dash. Am I supposed to just tap into the black and red wire coming off of the ignitor w/o severing its original connection?

I'm looking at the Work Emotion XD-9's Front: 18x9 +30 w/ 245/35/18's Rear: 18x10 +38 w/ 275/35/18's think I'll be ok with these numbers??

It wasn't connected at all :: hommer :: What ECU did you end up going with?

Ok guys, here's some more. I am trying to figure out which wires I need to put into my EA2 to get my A/C to work on my 1J swap. I believe that whichever wire it is that I take from my existing body harness, needs to go into my EA2 pin #9 (which is a blue wire with red dots, not a stripe)...

Does anyone know how to test the hydrofan temp sensor plug? Maybe some resistance values?

DM line to 7M sender Mobil 1 10W-30 Cold start: 50-60 psi Warm idle: 20-25 psi Cruise: 40-60 psi

I get continuity from pin 2 on the small ignitor connector to pin 6 ( a black wire) on the connector that plugs into the tach area on my cluster. I get better continuity on pins 4 and 5, a green and white-green wire respectively, that I believe are for the gauge lights, which doesn't make much...

It helps if your number 1 spark plug connector is actually connected :-) Code disappeared immediately and it runs super smooth!! So now it's just the tachometer and the water pressure gauges I need to get working...

Does anyone know where you would get a "check harness" as used in this diagnostic inspection procedure? (under step 3) http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/engine_2_14.htm

What are you going to go with? DM has just released a new AEM on their website. I may be going that route if I can't get the stocker to work for me. http://store.driftmotion.com/static/i-aemversion2ecupnpfor1jz-gte.php

I work at a company that does downhole tracing and logging so we have a board shop in house. I gave my ECU to one of my techs and holy shit was it torn up under microscope, like, horrible. He did some serious soldering and used wires to jump over damaged sections. I plugged it back in and the...

So you just tossed it and went with an EMS ECU or what?

Ok, sweet. I was going to send the ECU back to DM and see if they could do anything with it, I'm trying to find out if they test the ECU's they do the cap service on before they send them back to ya. My car runs very, very rich at idle and then if I give it gas it starts breaking up, of course...

I had the DM cap service done before examining my ECU, as a precautionary deal. I'm currently throwing a Code 14 as well on my 1J. I opened the ECU and it looks like caps were replaced as none are leaking, but it looks like there was a leaking one that caused some damage to my ECU. I know this...