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Gauges worked fine when I had the 7m-gte in there. I guess I need to figure out how to test them.

My IG1 to M1 jumper harness was wired to take a signal from pin 23 on IG1 to pin 7 on M1. The gauge did not work with the jumper installed and the car running. Pin 23 is for the low oil light on a JDM 1JZ supra, but as I stated in my previous post, I installed a 7M sender on a DM braided line...

I think pic 2 is B1, B2, and M1.

I have a supra 1JZ wired into an 89' T. So for the oil pressure gauge: I used the DM extension and put a 7M sender on it. There is a wire that connects to the top of the sender and then runs to the 1JZ harness. In order to get my oil pressure gauge to work, do I just make sure that pin...

I have been struggling with this problem for about 2 weeks. I have another thread going about it, and I'm going to give it another try today or tomorrow to see if I can get it to seal. If what I'm going to try works, I'll post it. It is such a pain in the ass I wish I could kick the person...

Sweet!!

Yeah, so is Japan. Why don't you give Aaron a call at Driftmotion?

Where do you do that?:naughty:

Ok, so since I ruined my 1J damper, and the 7m will not work, I will have to go the FPD bypass route now, correct? Cool man talk soon... I'm not really following you, a pic would be a huge help! Thanks regardless!

Crap so I have to have a 1JZ dampener for it to work then? In other words, now that I've jacked mine up, a 7M-GTE dampener will not work?

Just sent Aaron an inquiry, but I talked to him day b4 yesterday about me having difficulty sealing the FPD off and he didn't mention anything so I doubt there's been any progress towards a fix on his end. How do you guys go about tightening the stock FPD with the motor in the car? I tried...

Destrux, I did notice the difference in diameters between the two sides of the fitting before the last re-install, and the way I put it in is the correct way as you've described it. It still leaked like a little bitch. Ok lets say I want to get rid of it, because I hate this little fucker...

I'm very frustrated. I tried the #1 washer on the top, the #2 on the bottom. Still leaked like crazy. Then I assumed it wasn't tight enough so kept wrenching on it, and ended up ruining the FPD itself b/c I lifted up while torquing. How in the hell do you tighten this thing correctly with...

Thanks zoppii, so you are certain washer #1 is used. I just dont understand why the stupid diagrams call out washers that aren't anything like washer #1, and seem to be much larger (ID wise) than what looks to be required to keep em centered.

I found a post similar to the problem I'm having but it is in the 7M forum, and I am dealing with a 1JZ thus my reasoning for this thread. For reference purposes here is the link to the 7M issue: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?129750-Gas-leak&highlight=fuel+pressure+damper...

Cool, thanks Kevin. So in other words, the only other data I need is the distance from the hub face to wherever I judge the plane of the car body to be. Then, for example, I would subtract 85.95mm from whatever the hub to fender distance is and I could determine how flush the wheel face would...

Ok. Please bear with me because I know I still haven't fully grasped the relationship between offset, wheel width, and tire width when it comes to creating a "flush" appearance on the supra. So in keeping the same wheel widths (8.5 front, 9.5 rear), if I were to reduce offsets to as close...

Thanks Rodel. The +32/+38 would be pretty equal to each other as far as being flush with the body because I have a wider wheel in the back correct? Would a +32/+30 work as well or would the rear be getting too close to fender?

Will I be ok running the following? F: 18 x 8.5 +32 w/ 245/40/18 R: 18 x 9.5 + 38 w/ 275/35/18 Thanks for any advice!

Thanks mkiiichip! Can anyone confirm that the nut size on the DM sender hose is 11mm?