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Does the oil drip on your turbo look like this: Also is there supposed to be a bolt where the red circle is?

Lightweight, discrete, and leaves tons of room in the hatch, not to mention enough for the targa w/o any issue.

This is the rear twin on my 1J. The location where I believe a bolt to be missing is circled in red. Is this bolt location to actually hold the turbo housing together or is it for something to be bolted to the turbo (doubtful). The other two green circles are oil drops. Is this where one...

I'm guessing that this must be happening to my 1JZ. I have stock twins, 3" downpipe and full unrestricted exhaust. When I get to higher RMP's under boost I hear the exhaust pop and the boost just falls off. In the lower range though it pulls hard.

Ok, so I took my car back to the shop for alignment (Firestone, NOT a race or suspension shop), after installing all of my new camber bolts. I'm running ZP stealth attack coilovers and 18x10's (+38 offset) w/ 275/40/18 in the back. I've lowered to have approximately 0.5" clearance between the...

Hey guys thanks for the replies, I've been hammering out alignment and ride height issues, I am going to rebleed either tonight or tomorrow. So by RL, that would imply Rear Left, as in the driver side rear, correct?

So I forgot a detail that I've experienced before I drove it yesterday which I am still seeing. When I depress the brake pedal, and then release, the engine RPM's rise and then fall again.

I do have ABS. I will update with more detailed symptoms after lunch time, can't wait to drive it this is the first time I've driven it to work since I finished this evolution on the car!

I did not follow that precise order when bleeding, nor did I bleed any one caliper with the engine running. Perhaps I need to try this.

No I only changed the slave, which may be part of the problem. I know I can't expect an original component of the system to hold up if I replace another with a new part. I probably need to do this. Think it is wise to just rebuild it? DM sells a kit.

Yes, the car does stop pretty well, not as well as when I first bled them after the AZP install and bed in the pads. It seems like there is more resistance to pedal pressure now that I drove it for the first time yesterday in like 2-3 months (I've had it on jack stands while I cut out all the...

So I just finished all poly bushing install. Brakes were fine and bled before bushing job, but I opened a line not knowing I didnt have to take a front caliper off so I re-bled everything. Pedal was hard as a rock. Then I start the car, and with the motor running, the pedal turns to mush and...

Thanks for the replies IJ. I got the Stub axle out, and the frozen, sheared bolt out (the torch helped a lot). The new bolt is now in and it's ready to go back on the differential.

IJ, from the TSRM, it looks like the snap ring just holds the dust cover in position on the shaft(stub axle), is this the case? So I just use a slide hammer to pull the whole thing off, will this destroy the snap ring (the TSRM says to replace it)?

Ok, so then my diagram should look as follows: Is this correct?

What the hell do you do when this happens?? I can't get this f***er out!

Ok to clear things up, I was ASKING if the item I circled in the detailed drawing was the bearing. You guys are taking it as though I was stating that it is the bearing. Can anyone confirm this is the case?

Ok so is the location I've circled where the spherical bearing is located?

Anyone have one they'd be willing to loan me? One like this: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Damage-free-tie-rod-end-remover-for-import-and-many-front-wheel-drive-vehicles/_/N-2654?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=tie+rod&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=209525_0_0_ or like the...

leftynridge, which boots did you purchase? Under piece number 13009, there are 4 other part numbers (5.13102, 9.13125, 9.13130, 9.13132)?? http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/Energy-Suspension-Universal-Dust-Boots.asp