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Hey everyone i have a new project idea that im playing with and i need some info (and i dont really trust my math) im currently running a 97 1uzfe engine in my supra and im looking to go turbo, however there is a catch... i want to go remote turbo and i want to use a holset brand turbocharger...

Honestly this mod can be done very safely. i find the paranoia on the subject with a lack of factual evidence to support the mass paranoia pretty disturbing. we aren't driving pintos here supras aren't going to burst into flames if rear ended. that being said as long as he puts the 1 way valve...

im planning on twin ct26's eventually but im still maping out how i want to do it cause i want to run two seperate intakes and two smic intercoolers

i went 1uz and im lovin evry min of it

does anyone have any experience with coilover sleeves??? im wondering if i go that route if i can maintain the feel that i have with the tokico and h&r spring setup with an additional inch of drop just in the rear if anyone knows of a way i can safely and reliably do that im all ears

im already on tokiko blues and hr springs the handling is alright i cant complain too much but i need the rear to drop another inch and a half and still maintin the same drivability

hey everyone im looking into getting my first set of coilovers for my uza70 (1uz swapped)supra the goal i have for this car is to be a daily driver and weekend drifter. i neeeeeeeeed reliability. in your opinions what coilover set offers the best balance of stiffness reliability and height...

thanks man how is that manual steering rack working out for you ?

the secondary speedo cable snaped on the inside do you have the specs for setting the tps and what pins to clip to? also did you notice your steering being especiallly twichy or overly responsive after the swap??

ok cool im setting everything now quick question where did you stash your ecu at ? can you still use your glovebox?

found the issue it was in the wiring the major sensors were not getting power now that they have power the car idles muuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuch smoother and the power delivery is smooth as well i still have some smaller issues to sort out now since that issue is taken care of. thank you all for all...

ok i re connected the original coils, the plug wires are all correct and the distributor caps and rotors are in good shape. re filled the power steering lol now would you happen to know where all the major grounds are cause i can only find two and know theres more. all i found was the small one...

heres a vid i just made showing whats going on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjRpHaA64sY

yes the idle breaks up badly around 4k and it wants to backfire at that point maf (late model 97) is pointing in the right direction i can barely make it to 4k at all it struggles past 2.5 k i had a vid up on my thread on lextreme http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfaG8-nFZHw its also doing that...

i think ive tried everything folks and to no avail my summer project is still kicking my butt i have replaced cats, ecu's, maf's and vacum hoses and i still have the same issue of the damn thing will not rev past 4k and is kicking black smoke from running extremely rich, i just have a few...

ok ill check that out as well.

ok so this is really driving me nuts the car is either gonna spit black smoke and run rich as all hell with a 4k rev limit or its gonna bounce the idle and have a 2.5k rev limit i have cleaned the trhottle body replaced the maf cleaned the idle air control valve re oiled the idle air control...

ok here is a vid of what im now dealing with http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfaG8-nFZHw

ok so with both the coils hooked up the idle bounces but disconnect either one and the idle drops down to normal did i miss something here in my wiring ??????

i just set the tps fully clockwise and now the engine is not giving black smoke but it is not idling smoothly, it is bouncing the idle betwe8en 800 and 1100 rpm systematically. i have already cleaned the idle air control valve.