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It does sound very metallic. Rod knock is characterised by being regular and very highly correlated with engine rpm (as rpm increases the noise becomes more frequent). It is often not heard at idle and starts to kick in at a couple of thousand rpm. If you have a buggered big end then if...

Just do the spark plug lead test. It takes like 2 minutes and then you will know if it is coming from a particular cylinder. You dont need pliers. Just stop the engine and pull a lead off at the dizzy. Then start and listen. It takes much less time than making and uploading a video.

There is no way that is rod knock. Try taking one spark plug lead off at atime and running on 5 cylinders to see if you can identify if the noise is coming from one cylinder or not.

No.

My local machine shop got them. Since it needed a rebore he ordered the oversize pistons and then bored the block to suit. He did the same with the bigend and main bearings. He wont be much help to you though since he is in Australia.

Mine has BC cams and I use the gears to both tune it for performance and get the bloody thing to idle.

My rebuilt 7M has ACL/Mahle pistons. So far so good.

have found a couple of different sources that suggest the intake runners on my 7m-ge engine should be about 36mm to have a peak torque in a useable rev range. The book "Four stroke performance tuning" which seems to be very good reference fo NA stuff suggests that the intake runners should be...

I have the Titan brand that I think are made by Fidanza. BTW I now have two fitted and I had to file back the cover bolts behind the wheels by about 3mm.

I think next thing on your list will be bigger valves. You have done almost everything else.

My BC cams are running well with the following settings. Intake set at 0 degrees. Exhaust retarded by 2 cam degrees. Intake clearances set at 10 thou Exhaust clearances set at 12 thou. Any more overlap than that and my idle quality is crap. Lack of vacuum at idle is the main...

Have you cleaned out the ISCV? It may just be blocked and can't let more air in for idle up. Does it idle up when you turn the steering wheel at idle?

Most likely not. Mine does exactly the same thing. Put your finger on top of the fuel pressure regulator when you do it next time and try and see if you can feel something happening when the pins are shorted.

That is correct.

So what do you reckon? Options 1. Bypass system 2. Impco 425 3. Dual Impco 225s.

Thanks for the pics. Looks great. I presume the filter is mounted in front somewhere? The impco 225 is very restrictive. It is rated at 329cfm at 1.5 inches Hg Vac. But even that seems optimisitic.

Don't you still need either a VAF or a translated MAF reading when on LPG for the ignition timing control.

Yeah. That is what I was leaning towards. Since my model j converter would also need to be upgraded if I got a bigger carb such as the impco425. I have a spare throttle body that could be used as a butterfly/by pass as you mentioned. I will need to fabricate some piping to make it all...

OK here is my dilema. I have a impco 225 LPG carb on my 7mge. I have found that it is too restrictive and since the air flows through it regardless if its running on LPG or unleaded it affects the performance both on LPG and on unleaded. The impco 225 is rated to 329cfm. This sounds like...

You can test the tps at the TDCL connector without removing it. Read the online supra tsrm to find out how. It's in the automatic transmission section from memory.