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go to post 7 shows what to do http://mkiiisupra.net/bbs/showthread.php?t=13888&highlight=guide+safc

cold or hot? what is it hot at idle and with the rpms up a lil? the spec is something like 5psi at idle hot and around 40psi max with rpms up

^ ooo ok that makes sense

did you check for codes before you replaced the tps? they are probably just old codes.

why would you be adding shims to the tps? all you do is move the sensor into the proper resistance range and tightin the 2 screws. if not as specified replace.

ground points are a,c,d,h,k on this page for that circuit.http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=151 the dimmer switch should be if the tail lights work but you could check the resistance in it and maybe that would be the problem for the gauges. does it rain a lot...

measure the rotors for thickness to see weather or not you need to replace them first. my car came with ebc red stuff front brake pads and when they get low they make a LOT of noise. right now i have the trd ceramic carbon pads and they are good pads but expensive. if they get really hot they...

do the same tests with all the load with the engine at like 2000 -2500 rpm. if you get 14 volts when doing that there is nothing wrong. the alt usually will put out 13.5v on idle and 14-14.2 with more engine rpm

check it with the engine running one lead on the 10mm nut on the alt and the other on the neg of battery for alt output. when you check it on the battery posts you will have a very slight decrease due to resistance in the wires. you should have somewhere between 13.5 to 14 at idle and 14- 14.2...

make sure you tail light gaskets are good water will destroy that box other than that good diy

wow...

10-12 psi if your not hitting fuel cut. there needs to be a filter unless you want dirt coming into your engine. i know i dont. make sure there are no vacuum leaks of any kind. and if you have the money get a aftermarket boost gauge the stock one is shit.

how do you know that the afrs are correct?

the repair manual say the spec on the rebuilding head section 1. cam bolt specs are 14 lbs 2. the arps should have come with a torque sheet i know mine dont have that but 80lbs is good did you machine both the head and the block? cuz it sounds like you left the block in the car?

^ya and 99% your head gasket is blown or a cracked head. either way replace hg and get the head checked out. if you want to test it some more get a block test done as grimreaper said

ya serious go its on sunday at 11-12 but if your busy thats a bust but do what u gotta do

its ok to be a little overfilled on these engines since they have such a big oil pan. if its cold out you will see steam like smoke that is normal and the turbo smoking is probably just excess oil burning off from the loose valve covers

they should fit good might need to roll the fenders a lil bit

.net not .com just tried to go on the website

looks like a bigger aftermarket supra fmic take the old one off and see how it fits. probably going to have to relocate the oil cooler