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I had the same thing happen to me just not as bad. I popped out most of the dent. Good to hear every ones ok.

2 of my fav videos. Thanks for posting them for me so i dont have to search lol.

Im pretty sure there is no law. The only reason they dont reset without fixing is so that you spend more money so they fix it. There is the lemon law tho so either they have to fix it within 3 trys or they have to buy it back.(i think it applies to used cars too)

The sensor will go into the motor no problem. Its the connectors on a couple, like knock sensor plugs, csi time switch plug, o2 sensor. Toyota used some different pins and plugs between pre89 and 89+ but all of it is interchangeable with the engine.

Shouldnt as the wiring has the connector for the hac sensor and you can buy a used hac sensor off someone.

I dont know mk2 but i dont see why not. But 89+ has some different sensors that have different plugs and the pins on the plugs are different also.

Ya that makes it easier. Im just saying, i have done it both ways + im lazy, so the easiest way is with the pump hands down. Do what you like tho. Plus the more you mess with interior parts the more problems you have with them especially when there 20 years old.

Shifter bushings dont need to be replaced every 30k. Also then you have to spend money on the top seal as it will leak after taking the shifter out so many times.(i dont like silicone things that never came that way from the factory.)

I like the 10 dollar pumps so you dont have to pull interior parts to put fluid in. I think its a pan in the arse to pull that crap just to refill. Its like 10+screws and 8 bolts vs 1 bolt and a pump. Eh maybe its just me cause im lazy. Flat surface should take 3.2qts to fill it.

LOL. Year of engine not year of car. Regardless engine year does not matter.

Match psi? Turbos the same size?

Ya the year of the engine is irrelevant. Match the ecu/harness/and car together. To answer your question: Theres pics if you search block differences on this site you should be able to find pics There will be a rib on the exhaust side on the cylinders and inbetween the cylinders on the out...

For the 11 check the ecu grounds on the intake mani and make sure you everythng else is grounded. For the abs light you need to check codes but its prolly for the rear speed sensor. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=51 Did you pull the speed sensor out at all?

Ok. If you think its a fluke then go about 40mph and slam on the brakes to see how the anti-lock brakes work. Never heard of a car trippng a anti-lock light for no reason other than you tapped the brakes going 5mph.

Or it could be your wiring somewhere. A multi meter is your friend. You could clear them and hope they wont come back but thats slim as it takes so much for them to trip.

Howd you check the codes from here: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=52 but not know what the codes mean? Codes: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=BR&P=53 How to check the front speed sensors...

Hot dam. BOOM.

Yes it will work. The TB had a hole in it? Ive seen pics of that before.

Lolz. Damn that could have been bad.

Uh oh.