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If there stock 1jz twins and still ceramic shafts they can go at any time rebuild or not. !jz twins retarded notorious for that.

Oil squirters was a early block design. I have one. Old thin block with all the turbo feed and drain ports but no squirters.

Always good to pull no1 spark plug and verify that its at tdc and not just go off the maybe bad dampner.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=19

Its not that bad i have it. So long as your suspension is good and dont go over gnarly driveways straight on.

What are you using to measure your afr?

Its one of the stickeys in the general mk3 section or 7mgte tech section. Jdm still run charcoal canisters.

Stock 7m oil cooler. Theres only 1. The engine oil cooler. Stacked plate design. Gets better air flow as well and super easy to mount up and dont have crazy lines going all over.

Just need to hook up te1 whcih should already be plugged in from the diag port. and then w will go to the check engine light and should have been on the body plugs. Gray wire. E1 is just a ground so basically just need ot ground te1.

And there is one on top for the csi time switch which you will need. Lg-r is for the a/c temp sensor.

Its not cause a/c then. 51 came on because of tps. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=101 Also check your isc. Its a couple pages down from the tps on that link.

Clear the code and press the a/c button. Does it come back on?

Do the bead towards the middle and around the inside of the holes for the bolt holes. After that run a bead on the out side of the bolt holes.

There is a idle adjustment screw on the throttle linkage but the stock ecu is always going to try and get the idle down to 700. Why not just get the aem properly tuned. You seem to be the only person that is tired of a standalone ecu that lets you pretty muhc do anything you want it to and...

The gold one doesnt go in the hole on the side? I dont remember seeing those on my pump. The white thing go on the bottom? I doubt it but..

You just remove the cap that ahs the hole in it and add 5mm of washer to put more tension on the spring. Not hard.

Its either rotors or a ds. Check for play in the carrier bearing. Also inspect the brakes.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

For 700hp id be looking at a twin or tripple disc and not from spec. You also going to need a standalone, turbo, and the fuel to supply it. Expect to have at least 10k for a built motor and everything to supply it for 700hp. I would not be using stock pistons either.

Maybe titan. Idk if youll feel a difference with it tho.