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LOl. Welcome jill. I saw your car at torc. I had the white 1jz car. Your motor is very clean.

Need to set ign timing. For all you know it would be at like 0* and idling liek complete shit. Which kinda sounds like it is. Also need to jump te1 and e1 while doing so. Id let the engine warm up some set the timing and go drive it cause the more it sits there and idles the more the rings...

Use a breaker bar. Possibly some pb blaster. There torqued to 36ft lbs. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=29

Have you set the ign timing with a light? Id replace all the injector seals esp if you just rebuilt it. Also esp since therre like 6$ from rock auto. cps wiring good?

Neither of those guys do cf anymore iirc. Have you tried retro spec?

No. You will need the fans on pretty much all the time or at least temp0 activated or on at no/lower speeds. Those fans only come on if your a/c is on or if the engine gets too hot like 210*(i think) to pull more air through the radiator.

^ that would not matter. 24 is intake air temp. Which is the afm. 41 is tps signal. tps is prolly the problem your mainly concered about. the 24 is prolly the reason your hitting fuel cut in 2nd.

Just loosen the bolts with the belt on. Might have to hold the crank but a wrench. The cam bolts are like 25ft lbs and the crank i 198 so your not going to loosen the crank bolt unless it was already loose.

Royal purple is fine after 1500-2k miles. 30w on first 50, generic 5w30 for the next 1500-2k, then switch to a 5w30 or 0w30 syn of your choice. Rp is good but the gc is better. Red line is the best.

Id take the lexus housing off unless you have 550 injectors.

Yes. Just drive the car. If you dont beat on it, its should last a long time.

If you dont bench bleed its just going to take longer to actually get all the air out. For the abs, it remains in the open position so if you bleed the brakes like normally it will get the air out. IF you have a spongy pedal feel you have air in the lines.

1 a/c fans as grim said. 2 proly wont get used. 3 7m fuel injector resistor pack. If your 1j and on 1j 370 or 2j 440 injectors you can ditch that. The little black thing attached is for the stock boost gauge. 4.i dont remember seeing that on my 1jz. Which 1j do you have?

Not that bad. Loosen the cam gear bolts with the belt on. Set the engine to tdc with the lines pointing up on the cam gears. Take the belt off take the cam gears off. Take the backing plate off. Change the seal.

Is there a way yes. Would a 4in aem dry flow be a better/easier option yes. Just need to go get some metal make a flange for the apexi 4 bolts. Then weld the 4pm pipe to it. If it's smaller then need to go from smaller to bigger making it somewhat a restriction.

Whats the meter at? Seems like either your on the wrong mode or the afm is bad unless its 100*f out. That test is only for the air temp sensor as well. If the engine runs fine dont worry about it.

And you have it? Good consistent spark? Cps in like this? http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?38775-How-To-basic-timing-instructions-CPS-alignment What order from left to right are the spark plugs on the coil packs? and on the plugs front to backj?

Have you changed the spark plugs at all?

Sure you got the prongs right on the relay? Should have resistance on 2 of the ports only. If you put power to those 2 ports you should have resistance in the other 2.

Are you doing jz swap and routing the harness through the firwall? Im just using a old 7m harness grommet facing backwards.