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Fair enough Grim :) I think I might from now on just start her up 10-15seconds driveaway off boost until warmenough. I agree too that nothing gets the temperatures up quicker than slow driving rather than idling.

Thanks for the advice!

I don't think my Cold Start Circuit is working properly as I've had a cousin of mine and me fiddle with the solenoid to increase idling RPM to about 800-900 but normally on startup it drops to like 700 then 600 then 500rpm... so it sounds very clunkly like its about to stall. I dont think I have...

Interesting... I always just hold out 2minutes atleast. Poodles how can long period of idling cause more wear than driving @ 6000rpm...??? (Most i've idled is probably 3-4minutes on the coldest day... but just curious)

What kind of car do you drive? I thought you had some pimp oldschool muscle car @ one stage or a Merc or something.....?? Oh and guys as far as not stepping on it until properly warmed as the TSRM states not to start the car and immediately go under full boost... LOL obviously for good...

Interesting sofar, IJ. isn't that when the most damage occurs, starting her up and firing away....??

I was thinking the same thing! It's nice to see another beautiful black Supra :) Also if that turbo acts anything like mine judging by the graph you should be hitting 400-450hp after everythings in check. My car makes peak power @ 6300rpm.

Hi All, I'm just curious how long everyone idles on their first startup for the day or if the engine is back to cold after a few hour lapse. I have a 88/8 GT Limited w/ Digital Dash and I always wait atleast 2/3minutes until the temp gauge has gone up one bar, so that it's not on dead cold...

That looks very oldschool 240z like.... =/ Not a fan of round dashes like that.... the Aston Martin's is hot though... but the whole car needs to be done the same for it to look complete.

I don't believe this would apply to those with a GT Limited (Digital Dash?)

How would you determine whether your thermostat is shot, and though I think I know where it is on the 7m (near the CPS little to the front of it) is that really where it is?

I've hit 175km/h (109~mph) and I wasn't even trying and it also didn't feel not one bit scary or unstable or anything of the such. Don't know the top speed of it and I don't have a theoretical limit with a digital dash but doing 109mph was without a sweat.

I think that too.. much better with the orange... as when you drive at dusk/dawn having the side lights orange is much hotter than clear... it's what makes the car different and I love it. That's also the same reason why I won't put blue/white halogens... unnatural feel about it. Sorry...

So this whole apparent issue exists because of the heater router (which is for heating the car?) as in Australia I doubt there'd ever be a day when you would require a heater if that's the case.

I think we can clearly solve this myth in a matter of seconds by asking those with bigHP 7m's whether they have done this workaround for extra head cooling.... IJ? Nate? Duane? If all 3 say 'no' then I think that more than confirms the need not to do it. :naughty:

correct me if i'm wrong but Civic's are peg legged pirates as only few FWD cars lock diff. That would make it easier to get all the power concentrated to 'one' wheel.... nothing special.

Mine does have some play (2-4mm left-to-right possibly?), but it has never really bothered me? :icon_neut I dont feel the firewall flexing either.

Air thanks. :D

Eitherway the guy's got more power than me, props to him! :D The exhaust aint that bad.... if he had twin int he middle even better... I've seen it on plenty of muscle cars but they need to be smoked black not that polish tip look and then its nothing but tough. While we're at it, Duane...

IJ.: Yeah, excellent info from this thread aswell about cam lift, as I wasn't aware of those aspects, all I knew was bigger cams = less driveability. I agree GrpA didn't care about idle / drivability, although can't idle be adjusted to be little higher 900rpm? 1000rpm? then it would make it more...