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I'm in Orlando. Cruise 434 to and from work in my blue MK3. The best meet is every other Wednesday at Cigarz in Waterford Lakes. Next one is 11/2 at 8PM. If no one is there right at 8 just wait around. They like to be late. ;)

Turn the key to ON. It stops beeping in less than 5 seconds.

Would it act the same if the sensor were just not plugged in? I ask because it worked last winter before I looped the heater lines and now after removing/replacing the dash it doesn't work. All other CC functions are working properly. I'll have a chance to properly look at it Sunday...

I recently replaced my heater core. When I have the heater control (89+ control, 87 car) set at anything other than 85 I get cool air. Set it to 85 and it's HOT. I would imagine that this is caused by the blend door not opening. Did I miss a plug somewhere that allows it to open the door...

I will be hitting this up. I've started trying to gather a caravan from the Orlando area. From the interest so far I'd say there will be at least 5-10 of us and we're trying to make it easy to find the meet spot right off I4 for anyone coming up I4. Meet up at 2 and roll out at 2:30...

May as well throw a couple in the ring: Club Lexus South FL BBQ Spring 2011 Miami Supras by GuySmiley2222, on Flickr IMG_0241 by GuySmiley2222, on Flickr

The pic is pointing directly to your iPhone. Use the 'Go Advanced' button to post. Scroll down and find 'Manage Attachments' button. In the window that pops up click 'Add Files' then 'Select Files'.

Pictures will help immensely in helping us diagnose your issue. There should only be 2 wires going to the positive battery terminal. 1 thick one that runs straight to the starter and one smallish blue one that comes from the fuse box.

Mine started on the hood. After a couple years the targa and tops of the fenders started showing the same symptoms. Old clearcoat + FL/CA/NV heat/sun = :'(

There's something wrong with this picture. I'm on a stock CT-26, 3" turbo back (DM downpipe, test pipe, Blitz cat back), HK$ intake, and a previous owners mystery spearco style IC, and without a boost controller was only running ~7 psi. The exhaust being 'free' should not cause the wastegate...

I'm close to $15k myself with plans to spend another $15k+ in the coming years between paint, rims, rebuilding the block, suspension...

Not any more of a new Supra than the original LFA. Just a special edition. The 'FT-86' is a 4 cylinder Subaru mill thrown in a Scion RWD chassis. Overall more of an AE86 feel than a Supra.

IMG_0040 by GuySmiley2222, on Flickr

The ears snap when you don't use the factory rubber washers. They are made that way from the factory to allow for vibration. I learned the hard way and had to buy 2 new sets of valve covers. After picking up the rubber washers from my local dealer I have yet to have another ear snap off.

Looks normal to me.

The no 3 cover does seal the hex head plugs but not the other valve covers. You will need a 14mm allen wrench and 4 Napa # 704-1076 to do what you said you would do in your last valve cover thread.

My sis lives in Kansas City and last winter my girl and my sis were both sending me nearly identical pics... snow up to the mailbox, negative teens... I got my license with 3 feet of snow on the ground in KC back in the day. I'll take snow over this FL heat any day of the week. If it's cold I...

I never knew this thread existed. Since it's an 'of the day' thread I'll stick to one a day when I have them. ;) 2011-09-11_00012 by GuySmiley2222, on Flickr

Just me or are these conflicting statements? I'd have to see it first but I don't believe I'd pay more than 3k for that. IF he had all the service records as he states.

Depending on which side it is both of mine aren't toast. I've got new hoses and a used but verified control valve coming. Normally being in FL I'd just leave it looped and call it a day but I'm moving to MI soon and would like heat when the mercury can't make it out of the bubble at the bottom...