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no problem. I'm glad it works

yeah i connected mine to +B. what are your wires connected to? i mean what are the wires from the unit connected to at the ECU? mine is as follows and works: Red wire - +B Black wire - Ground Yellow wire - IGF Green wire - NE White wire - E-Brake

wire it into the CPS wire for an rpm signal. should be the connector pin that says "NE"

*UPDATE* Got the new unit in yesterday and got it installed. unit works as advertised! definitely got a bad unit from the last guy i bought it from. i can definitely tell a difference from the build quality. the unit is heavier, the wire loom looks cleaner and the switches actually make a click...

My counterfeit unit looks like the real one. Never seen one without the logo until now

*UPDATE* i tried a few more configurations and still nothing. i even wired in the white wire for the E-Brake to see if that would help and..... NOTHING! the lights start flashing at the right time but it's not cutting spark at all. i contacted another seller from ebay about the issues that I'm...

And yes all loops are still intact. I haven't cut any of them

Dirgle, I hooked up the unit that way as well and the unit didn t even turn on, rechecked all connections and tried again and still didn't come on. I read on some other forums on how guys were hooking it up and they are doing it the way I have done it. I even went as far as opening the bee-r...

Thanks for the input man. Ill try to squeeze it tomorrow lol. I tried all 4 of the igniter wires going to the ecu and they all yielded the same results. The unit is brand new. At least it looks that way. Wires untouched... even wired it for a 3sgte, jza70, iggte, and the 7mgte and only the...

I'm having an issue with my BEE-R rev limiter on my 89+ supra 7MGTE. the damn thing just doesn't seem to work correctly. i have tried wiring it in numerous configurations and the only one that yields me a partial result is the configuration from this link which is JZA70 specific...

Code 51 is for TPS. Check your connector and make sure its on there

The only time I've had an issue with a bov opening up under boost is when the vacuum line going to it had a hole in it. So maybe check that or like u said maybe the spring is worn out?

There is also one steel bracket with 2 bolts on the top of each fog light hole in the bumper that require removal as well. if they're installed that is...

Not sure about removing the radiator support bracket. When I did mine, that whole "angled piece" that hooks up to the hood latch came completely out. Gives you plenty of room. Also gonna have to relocate the horns, coolant reservoir, and oil cooler as well if you didn't know

for the knock sensors i used RG59 cable that i got from a computer store and have had zero problems with it. as far as the dual conductor shielded wire I'm not sure. hope that helps

http://www.ddmcse.com/turbo/heatervs.htm Basically take that long plastic hose that runs across the top of your firewall and unplug it from the vsv switch. Then plug the line you disconnected into the diaphragm on top of the assembly. Not saying it will fix your problem but it did fix mine...

Was the heat working fine before you changed out the thermostat? I used to have the same problem and I just ended up bypassing the valve. No problems ever since

ive got an aem UEGO and i love it. got a smokin deal on it for $75 bucks from a friend. brand new they are $200 "clams" keep an eye out in the "for sale" section. they pop up every now and then

$2600 in parts so far, $500 for the car, but i've only had it for a year and half

www.jscspeed.com www.horsepowerfreaks.com www.suprastore.com theres plenty more but these are just a few