My Unorthadox Aluminium flywheel won't arrive in Australia until next week so I'll post pics then.
I'm building my own twin plate 9.5" clutch for the new motor and want the light flywheel to keep overall mass about the same as stock so the car should launch and drive the same as with a stock...
I put a new Fan Clutch in mine when the motor went back in and it's noisy as with the amount of air the fan is moving!
(give it a rev in a parking lot and small children and animals stick to the grill ;) )
ROFLMAO man does that thing rev!
Cop was pretty cool ;).
Cracked up when the camera guy fell on his butt!
(was waiting for the driver to clip him in the smoke)
I've done business with Supra Sport back in the old days and now with HPF!
I can't speak highly enough of HPF as being in Australia if something goes wrong with an order my options are limited!
I've spent 6>7K with Jeff and have no concerns at all as they're very professional and have...
Raw material costs sound much the same but I think our guys gouge prices a bit on the mandrel bends :(
There wasn't a lot of difference in price between Aluminium and Steel bends.
I went standalone as I think it's easier in the long run to get a consistant result. (seems to be a dark art getting a piggy back to work)
Guess it depends on your budget.
Drake: Yep but I have enough in that box to just about make 2 sets and if you're bending in one piece it's cheaper again cos there isn't the waste pipe on the ends! (The point I'm trying to make is they shouldn't cost a lot more than steel pipes if they're made commercially)
Haven't ran it with the 35 yet I'm just collecting all the bits and pieces.
I did 4000 KM's on my GT30R with a .63 AR and it was pretty well instant spool!
Drake: I bought a BIG box of mandrel bends and some straight to make my new pipes and it wasn't that expensive!
If they're using a CNC bender and have the code already they shouldn't be that much more than steel not to mention no coating costs on top!
Colin: My take on squirters is they're a huge pressure leak and just move heat into the oil.
I've ran quite a few na/t type motors over the years without squirters with no issue, but I always make sure the cooling system is as good as I can make it.(both oil and water)
Oil supply is fairly easy the Oil drain/return is a bitch to do on an NA block so most people weld a bung in the pan.
Coolant can be done with simple T's into the heater hoses.
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