point 2: in Tony's post
There's a HUGE load on the pump at anything over idle......
Worth checking clearances before buying a new pump and if it's just loose on the end float you can use a sheet of glass and some wet/dry sandpaper on the pump body and end plate to close it back down to spec.
AM: There are steering limit stops with plastic caps on them, you might be able to adjust them to stop the steering turning far enough to scrape the wheels.
Brian: LOL I'm learning from the masters! ;)
Jayson: LMAO who made it to 100 first?
I'm actually on my second rebuild as I wasn't happy with it the first time!
It just seems like it's taking a long time as I have to work a bit to pay for the parts as I'm NOT rich (no trust fund here...
Going from the info supplied with my standalone I have 1 and 6 together then 2 and 5 then 3 and 4.
I'm guessing what you mean is I could use either wire for 1 and 6?
If the bore size is correct Forged shouldn't rattle when warm...
They need more clearance as they expand more than cast pistons but if everthings correct they're at the same piston to bore clearance once the motor is at operating temp!
This is why it's bad to rev a cold motor with forged...
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