I was just thinking of simplicity, it's going to be a bit of a sleeper so not all out for power so the CT WG should cope fine at those flow rates without creep!
I drove a Cressy when I was looking for a beater and the only reason I didn't get it was lack of grunt a GTE would have fixed that...
There's heaps of adjustment in the front I had a problem with the rear when I dropped it with both tanks full it ran out of adjustment.
I ended up lengthening the lower transverse arms to get the adjuster cams back in the middle of their range.
Pioneer: Depends on boost and flow!
My car with the GT30R was choked to 9psi by the IC being too small.
I ran it with a full 2.5" system then changed to a 3" and saw no difference at all but I suspect if the IC wasn't choking it there would have been.
Maybe ask BIC if he can make you a...
By "Freaking people out" If Simple means I'm actually giving facts based on reality and physics yeah I guess I am!
I said it's rare to actually have problems and even then it's only under sustained high speed running so in a DD it shouldn't ever be an issue.
As for a 2 piece being cheaper...
Yeah it was a bitch to get rolling but once it was going it was fun! :)
Used to freak friends out dropping back to 1st at highway speeds!
(It had a 2 piece shaft with a centre bearing and a CV joint)
Eriol: LOL I had a Holden Commodore with a 2.5:1 9" Ford diff and a Toploader box that would do 135Kph in 1st ;)!
Econ: Yep I'd say that qualifies as sustained top end :)!
Econ: If you were doing sustained high speed running yes I'd say it would kill parts fairly quickly, The slip yoke on the driveshaft runs in a plain bearing and I think that would be the first to suffer followed by uni joints.
I stayed 2 piece after talking to my driveshaft specialist.
A...
Eriol: They're stock ADM mirrors ;)!
With universal joints they travel in an eliptic path, at a certain speed they get a touch out of synch and this can be felt as vibration.
Is seems to be worse/more pronounced on a long shaft so most car makers put a CV joint in the middle of the shaft...
Usually if the fingers are uneven it's a broken pivot ring causing it so shouldn't be an issue with a new PP.
A quick check with a used PP is to tap it on the ground if a pivot ring is broken you'll hear a ringing like a bell if it's ok it'll be a dull clank.
For soft rubber type seals and gaskets I use Permatex #3 as it doesn't set hard.
For hard gaskets I use #4
I use maniseal on anything exhaust
I use fipg for the pan
On head gaskets if they have a viton rubber coating I'll use a thin smear of #3 around the timing case end but leave...
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