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What he said. If you really want wheels that fit, buy some in the right size. OR, you could try Mustang rims, Stealth/3000GT rims, 350Z rims, RX7 rims, but the offset might be a bit off still.

No, I would think you'd be fine at 70. I would just recommend that you check the torque each time you replace spark plugs.

Sounds like fun- where were you guys racing? An empty stretch of road or something?

Yeah, going up by 5 ft. lbs generally doesn't work too well, as you have to overcome the tension-friction on the bolt- Dunno if that's the right way to say it, but your essentially twisting the bolt down it's length till it gets to the threads, and therefore you might reach the torque setting on...

sounds like the turbo pressure sensor, if it has a vacuum nipple, and a electrical plug.

Yeah, I was gonna say that it might not be so bad once the motor's back in. Heck- if you're building it for comfort, you don't need to be showing off the engine bay anyway.

you rhino-lined your TEMS caps and fasteners, and your steering rack? Well, like you said, at least it'll be quiet.

So um... any word?

whatever happened to the guy who was making them outta carbon fiber?

Wondering if you checked for any codes, as we always ask. I wonder if you're getting a KS error.

Werd- The CPS's wires and the alignment of the unit itself prolly make up 75% of all no-start issues for these engines.

Sorry- I almost had that happen to my car- I had a weak battery, and a guy was nice enuf to offer to jump my car. I gave him his end of the cables(my mistake) after I hooked them up to my Supe. I get in and as soon as I sit down to crank, I see smoke pouring out from my hood I yell "disconnect...

Cool- I'd like to see that. :biglaugh:

I would think so too. Besides, our aero is pretty good in the MkIII, VERY good in fact.

Let us know how it goes- I have a phenolic intake gasket, but it's only like 1.5mm thick. Dunno if it'll do much when I install it.

Well, I've noticed that my car has gotten progressively slower over the last 2 years, I believe due to the mild rod knock issue, as well as a weakened overall compression. I've dropped my new block off at the shop last week, to have it bored/honed out for the probe pistons, then I can assembled...

wonder how they did that...

If the pulley can be rotated back and forth, the keyway is prolly damaged. It CAN be fixed, however. I had a guy mig weld some material into the widened key slot, and then I dremeled the wall vertical again. tight as a bangkok midget.

No.

You can start by grabbing the crank pulley on both sides, and try rocking it forward and back, however, the best way is to simply put a 1/2 inch drive socket wrench w/ 19mm(I believe) socket on there, and see if it tightens. If it is loose, the best way to tighten it enough is to remove the...