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Funny- I was about to reply about checking the pulley bolt, as this has happened twice to me, but then I read down and saw you already found it. It sounds worst at low rpm, on starting and shutting down as well. If it's a loose pulley, it'll even screw up your acceleration, and cause a heavy...

I don't get it- this is a .68 A/R hot side. I would expect it to boost fairly quickly. Heck I might even think you'd want a .7-.8 A/R for more top end.

You're seeing 100+psi in what car?

No- replacing slave is VERY easy. It's like two bolts that hold the thing on, and the one hard line. I think you'd need a 10mm and 12mm socket, and a 10mm wrench. It takes literally 5 minutes to replace, and once your done, you just bleed it, which is easier than bleeding brakes since the line...

How many miles on it since the engine work, and did the engine actually overheat during this event? before you call the salvage yard to come pick it up, I would retorque the head bolts if that has not been done since rebuild.

looks good. Reminds me- I saw a Nissan Pathfinder yesterday, all jacked up... It was completely coated in Rhino-tuff liner. Looked pretty cool. Talk about durable finish.

Some hoes... :naughty:

If the window channels/ regulator don't hold the window tight, they will rock back and forth at any intermediate position, and the fluffy things won't hold tight except at full up. Atl least that's my experience.

I replace all my fluffy things, and it didn't help. The real problem is the window regulator. I need to remove mine and see where exactly the freeplay has developed.

Small update with pics to follow- I just dropped off the freshly-decked block for boring and honing, now that I have the Probe forged pistons. The block should be done in about a week. Then I can FINALLY start assembling the short block. Also, I've picked up a Long brand stacked plate-type oil...

say what?

True- I may switch over, once I go to a T-4.

You can get OK stuff off Ebay, just make sure that the gaskets you buy are not just the thin paper style. This intake gasket is crap: This set looks better- rediculously low price...

Go outside right now and retorque your HG to about 70-75 lbs. The spec is 58, and it's wrong. That's one of the main reasons why it blows.

LOL!- TRUE that. I've replace all of the front studs in both hubs, because I replaced both front bearings/ seals. It IS a bitch to disassemble the ABS hubs, because that big-ass nut on the back doesn't wanna come off without airtools, and the spindle itself will NOT come out without an SST, or...

Flush the fluid as stated above, and remove & turn all 4 rotors.

Awesome work man- I really like the detail of your reports.

This is a dumb, but pertinent question- IS THE FAN TURNING THE RIGHT DIRECTION? If you wired it backwards, everytime you get to op temps, it'll turn on the fan, and that will pull air from the hot engine-side back through the rad, or if you're driving, it'll block air from coming in, like an...

Yeah, well.....the air going through the upper grill will tend to go to the path of least resistance, so it'll go up towards...OK- so there's a seal around the front of the hood, so it's not going to go there, but when it GETS to the seal, it really doesn't feel like turning around, so it goes...

Your rotors have probably rusted to the point that they interfere with the pads. kinda like, they pads didn't move towards the rotor, but the rotors "grew" towards the pads. Make sense? Sounds dumb, but spray some wd40 onto the rotors, and next to the brake pads. You'll want to 'degrease' it off...