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Re-pin was just as discussed. It took literally 2 minutes to swap the pins, and the dimmer works perfectly. What wasn't mentioned is which pin is #1,2,3 and 4. Looking at the harness plug open end with the plug's lock 'latch' on top, they are: 1 2 3 4 Easy swap, thanks guys.

Lol! great.... I just got my dimmer in today, and about to de-pin the harness. I will post my results.

I like that, Cajun- Is it just regular paint?

Well, it took 22+ years for the oem to blow, so....not bad.

True- E code means ECE approved, which is for the other side of the pond.

The E-codes use H-4 bulbs, so they can actually be one in the same. The E-code housing provides the proper(and legal) light pattern for the US. http://www.classicgarage.com/hel20rech4he.html But I went cheap, and bought these: http://store.classicgarage.com/withbulbshield.html They're still...

Thanks again Jeff. I'm expecting a 90+ dimmer in the mail on Monday. Hopefully, I'll be able to report good news then. :icon_bigg

I've never hit FC in first gear. I think that with more load in second gear, you get more airflow thru the AFM, and you're boosting in 2nd longer than first. Dunno if I explained that quite right.

Ummm... Adampecush had commented on Dumbo's picture of his relocation, saying he shouldn't use a stainless line right next to the alternator. THAT'S what it had to do with this thread- So it really wasn't such a "noob" queastion, since someone else had already brought it up.

It's the CPS!!!! Just kidding. Actually, it wouldn't hurt to try jiggling the wires coming out of the cps if they're a bit crispy with age, they sometimes loose contact. But it does sound like an IC hose is completely loose or something.

Yeah, you can't come up in here, and just say- "Once upon a time, they all lived happily ever after- Yayyy!!!" It just doesn't make for a good story. Where's the plot? Where's the character development? The internal struggle with right and wrong?

Ok, I hope one of you guys can sort it out and post a definitive summary on this.

What he said. Check the 'big' fuses in the engine compartment, including the fusible link- the black looped-looking wire. Make sure it's not melted, or crispy.

I love 'happy endings'... I swear- every time I read a thread title that says ..."rebuild, but won't start"...I just wanna post CPS!, without even reading it, because it seems like it's the culprit 99% of the time. :-)

I mean the rear of the front subframe.

Wow- thanks for the expanded explanation. So- For a US 88 car, going to a US 89+ dimmer, What pin do i need to change? I see that you have: 1 3 4 ...but what does that exactly mean? I get rid of pin #2 and move the others up?? It's not clear to me.

You know- I've had my '88 for 15 yrs now, and never gotten around to doing the rewire. I just read through it, and am a bit confused; why do we have to cut and splice 3 different wires? I'm thinking that the relay is triggered by the lowbeam circuit, and therefore drops off when headlights are...

I'm getting the impression that the pic shows the rear of the subframe hanging down- is that the only section that needs bolting up? Just go to Toyota(or call) and let them look it up.

Originally Posted by supraguy@aol "Hey there- I don't know if you've seen the thread in the general forum, but I had asked if the 89+ dimmer was plug & play with the 87-88 harness, and I was told that the pinout was slightly different, and that you might know what change was required. So I was...

Hooray for OEM crank pulley! Hooray for beer! but I digress.... Sounds like you might just be off on the cps position. Once you have the pulley in place, it'll be easier to check. Keep us posted.