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Hey- I was reading some old posts on here about re-doing the climate control LED's, and finally got started on my own. Problem is- now I don't know how to put a particular part of it back together. I removed the gray metal hold-down plate that keeps the brass slider in place for the buttons...

I'm sure that's the sound of rotation, normally muffled by the presence of a cylinder head. There IS no combustion.

Works now- Looks like you have an awesome build started there.

I think you might wanna raise that intercooler. Looks like you could bust that pipe on a parking block.

A tip- Don't mask off the ribs, hand paint them with a small brush. Way easier.

You keep saying 'here is this' and 'here is that'. There ARE no pictures. I'm assuming you tried to post some? I'd love to see them.

I'll be there.

Do you have existing fuel pressure, or are you having to build the rail pressure up each time you start the car?

Awesome progress, man.

MAFT baby- Yeah!!! LOL!- A MAFT or MAFT pro will eliminate the need for the LEX MAF, and allow an atmospherically-vented BOV. The easiest and cheapest cure is to have a recirculated BOV, like the original bypass valve was done. However, I don't think your model of BOV can be recirculated...

Yeah- for that color, I vote dark bronze.

As far as the dying at throttle-off, I would say it's your BOV. The car isn't set up to vent the bov to atmosphere. Hopefully I didn't misread anything you wrote, but using stock air metering(even the lex MAF) means that the air is metered, and then appropriate fuel is added. When you let off...

Thanks Afterdark! That's really a good look, IMO. That'll probably be what I go for- dark lower, light upper. I'll paint match the moldings to the lower as well.

As a habit, I always replace freeze plugs with a rebuild anyway. I like to remove the old plugs and make sure the coolant passages have no crud/ sediment in them.