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The upper plugs? When I removed them, they were all tight. I'll take them out again and coat the threads. PS- I just read an old post from 2007, where JetJock points out that oil doesn't conduct very well at all. I guess that explains why she still ran smoothly-even with more oil in the valley...

So anyway, now that I'm thinking about it, how could the entire spark plug valley fill up? I mean- it's three isolated compartments, I just don't see a leaking valve cover causing this. Maybe one section of the valley, but not uniformly filling all three. If anyone has any ideas, please share...

Was bored today, so I decided to degrease the #3 cover on my engine, as it was inexplicably greasy. I figured I just had to retorque the valve cover bolts. Well, after taking off the IC pipes and unbolting the coilpack, I start pulling the spark plug wires. HOLY Crap! EVERY single plug wire was...

Yes- get the OEM bearings in the proper sizes, so you can close those tolerances. The mains and rods are actually stamped with numbers, corresponding to the proper OEM bearing thicknesses.

Yeah- that front POS is always swollen and spongy from the oil contamination.

Thanks for the update.

481HP, 509ft-lbs TQ.

Cool- thatnks for the update.

Bombin- You got them done? Good for you.

How bout this? Seems a bit cheaper. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecId=2096

I think some people on Egay sell some, but they might have circles cut out of them. You can buy a spray tint and then clear coat the tails, alot of people do that as well. I think it's call ed nightshade, by VHT.

No difference.

I think you're right about the cc not working when that light is on. Go to the junk yard, get a replacement cap for the resevoir.

I own these, and like them. WOW on the vehemence in this thread, because wheels have an extra set of holes, lol. "if those were on my car, I'd stab the eyes from my head so I didn't have to see the sacrilege! "...

Well, the exhaust is till going to come out the tailpipe, it's just that it has to work that much harder(and heat way up in the process) to do it.

Check the connector to the temp sensor first. It's the sensor on the thermostat elbow with the small rectangular plug that fits on a sensor with a flat spade sticking out of it.

I believe flow is into the mani, and into the intake. Where to put check valves: [/IMG]

That seemed like a really slow race. Maybe it's my perception- but when you say you're up to 75-80- it's like 15 seconds into a rolling start?

I don't think they are aftermarket- They are reground OEMs, hence the core charge. I'm sure they're ok, but I wouldn't want an undersize crank, as I'm sure they all are.

You can't post there because you only have 15 posts, and have only been a member on SM for a few weeks. I'm surprised your thread hasn't been deleted yet. The only way you can sell on here right now is if you personally know another established member, and he posts/ vouches for you. Good luck.