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Also, I don't see how the coating can go from the manifold into the engine, unless you're talking about it passing through the EGR system to get there. Otherwise, the only way any flakes would be going is towards your cat.

Have you had any new codes since changing all of those items out? What is your fuel pressure showing? What mods do you have?

you expect me to believe that and old lady was trying to do a JZ swap?? Regardless, good find, man.

Yes. Or I might have some. PM me your address and I'll send what I've got, if you don't mind waiting a few days. Otherwise you're looking at like $7 or $8 at Radioshack.

If you get one from Advanced Auto parts, it IS a factory unit. It's Aisin, and they grind the name toyota off the side.

What rpm are you checking the timing at? Have you jumpered the T and E1 ports as the TSRM says? Jumping might be from misfiring. You should have fresh plugs gapped at .8mm

Mine is the headgasket. ...oh- sorry...my standard answer. I would see if you can get an adapter that goes from the accordian hose's inlet size to the same diameter as the output for the BOV. Basically- an all-metal reducer that will fit the nipple off the intake, and allow you to run a...

You already said that you had fuel pressure- why do you now think that you don't? And you said that your alternator is making a strange noise?? When the engine is NOT running?? You said you don't have spark- focus on that issue. Check the cps- it's timing AND the condition of the 4-wire plug at...

Does that help? It's a small circuit board on the back of your factory tach, inside the instrument cluster. It's a relatively easy job, even for a novice.

It's not hard- it's like 4 resistors total.

I was thinking the same thing. Take off your rear speaker covers, and you'll see the three top strut assembly nuts. Make sure they're tight.

In a word, no. You'd probably spend as much time modifying the dash and trim pieces, that your labor would pay for a MKIV.

Finally got it all back together- runs great. Only had to adjust the CPS once. yay me!

Unless your car has slicks and a rollcage, your new tach cannot be of greater diameter than 4.3 inches. If it is, ricer-douche factor increases at an exponential rate, in direct proportion. :biglaugh:

Try the regional forum for your state/ area- you'll get more responses.

Your car already has a tach, doesn't it? : ) http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=040

Well regardless, I'm taking precautions for both. I already had the stainless bolts/ star washers, and have coated the surface of the valve cover gaskets with a non-hardening hylomar sealant, which worked fantastic on my last motor. Also- I've put a small amount of hi-temp sealant under the...

Oh, I know- I've had this car for 15 years. But to leak evenly into all three valleys, and fill to the top of the plugs? It's gotta be the upper valley bolts, i'm thinkin.

I say get an ECU from Ebay or someone here, try replacing it. If no luck then it's not the ecu. Just sell it again for what you paid.

Um- our cars use 25mm shims, not 28mm. I HOPE you just made a typo, and didn't order 28mm items. And I've used Goodson for shims in the past- 18$ for 4 of them, not too bad. http://www.goodson.com/store/template/product_detail.php?IID=5442