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1. Have you checked the ALT fusible link in the fusebox yet? 2. If that's good, Check to make sure the neg. cable is tight to the block on the lower driver's side, and the pos. cable is tight to the starter as well. 3. Then check the condition of both terminals on the battery. They must be clean...

Eibach's, Tockico blue's, Suspension Techniques swaybars. Mind you- This is only about 15 minutes after I put the new wheels one, and the car had been up for awhile, so the car prolly sits about 2-3mm lower than this. If you want lower, get Intrax. They ride for shit, but you'll be slammed...

Before everyone jumps on you: What power are you making? What power are you planning in the future? Do you do any track or drag events, or is this stricktly a daily driver? If you're making near stock power and no plans for much bigger, I'd say some sort of stage 2 clutch. Something with a bit...

I finally broke down and got a real floor jack. I fits lowered cars, and jacks seriously high. I was tired of dragging my two stupid little walmart special jacks around. It's not a greatest jack you can buy, mind you- but its way better than what I had.

This is my biggest pet peeve of the forums. 99% of the time, once someone gets an answer and/or finds a solution, they never post the results. So nobody else gets the benefit of that knowledge if THEY ever have a similar problem.

Define 'nothing'. You mean there is no engine rotation, I assume? If this is the case, first ensure that the battery is charged. If so, check the ALT fuse in the fuse box. It is the loop of wire(fusible link). If the previous owner messed with cam timing, or cps timing, the car may not start...

If I were to guess, I'd say you'll make around 280 to 310 ft-lbs @12psi. And I would say yes, an Exedy would hold, but maybe not as long as a stock clutch on a stock motor. In other words, I'd say get something with slightly higher clamp pressure for longevity's sake. Organic discs are fine, but...

255's won't bulge on an 8.5 rim. My tire shop accidentally put 265's(my back tires) on my 8.5(my front) rim, and they looked pretty flush. I run 265's on my rear wheels(9.5), and wish I had gone 245 front/ 275 rear.

"Tonight" has come and gone... What are the results?

So... You're saying that the injectors are opening, but no fuel comes out? Was there any recent work done to the engine, or this just started happening?

I think you're overthinking this- He said(I think!) that he pulled the engine out, repaired it, and put it back in, no swap or anything. It's easier if the mounts are on the motor, and not on the engine cradle, when you lower it in.

Use either a mechanics stethescope, or a long screwdriver, to press against the valve covers, and zero in on where exactly this noise is coming from. If it indeed sounds like it is coming from under a valve cover, remove that cover, and check the valvetrain itself out closely. Post your findings.

Well, it definately looks glossier.

Hey Scott how you been? I'm the guy you bought that 7MGTE off of a few years back. As of today I just retired my 88 turbo to the garage for a complete renovation, including engine, suspension and paint. I'll be driving an '86 MR2 for the time being, but it's a pretty fun car. ps- Diego...

Yeah, it sounds like crap. I just hope that's all because of the phone. God, I wish they had released a LHD digital dash for us Americans...

It's the cps. Pull out the bolt that holds the cps in, and rotate it just beyond it's normal range one direction, and try starting it. If that doesn't work, adjust it the opposite direction just as much. If this method works, it means you have to pull the cps out and move its shaft one tooth...

Yeah, I swapped out my 22+ yr old springs with some Comp BBC inner's, just to get proper tension back. Never had an issue with them of course, and I do think it's a common AND cheap upgrade, but as Ian points out, Not for a true higher rev motor. I consider the BBC springs are to the valvetrain...

Never heard of that issue...

Yes, I sanded them down with a dremel. It's the edges of the valve reliefs that we're talking about. Probe made the reliefs oversize in case the customer went with bigger valves. Peoblem is, it leaves a sharp little ridge next to the edge of the piston. Sharp edges= hotspots=pre-ignition=...

Well, like I said- I don't know why people were throwing around lower numbers for the Probes. If stock pistons can handle 400+, I don't see why forged probes couldn't handle some much bigger numbers.