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Ok, thanks for the suggestion.

I'm looking for a set of coilovers, but don't want a "track" spring rate. I'd like good adjustability, but a milder spring, since 99% of the year, this car will be street driven. Thanks.

How much did you pay for the full set of arms? And- are you working on this car in an abandoned construction site or something?

So, seal the compressor housing, tack weld the wastegate flapper, switch to dual port actuator, and theoretically improve the lag by converting to ball-bearing... So...this turbo is better than a standard 57-trim upgrade....HOW? I'm glad a few of you guys are finally getting the bugs worked out...

You're saying the IC silicone hose is too big for the IC? If so, send it back. Just be sure you're using the right hose(coupler). I think some of the couplers are different sizes, depending on where they're supposed to go in the installation. And it's my understanding that the accordian hose...

Hooray for closure!

I'd hate to have to drop the tank, just to see what name is printed on the side of the pump. Can you still contact the previous owner? Repair the O2 and VSV issues, then you should look for the unknowns.

Nice Video, watched it beginning to end. And enjoyed seeing that the car is pimpin' the Kaminari wing. Guess I'll keep mine, since it's a "race" part.

The hardest part is placing the hub properly on the press. It's a somewhat odd, user-unfriendly shape, in regards to setting it up. If you have some proper press dies and some spacers to place underneath it, it makes it easier.

No talk of Spec. Is Spec sub-par to both of these? I was considering the Spec 2+. I want a street-friendly clutch that can handle 400-450.

Nice! I like this one: http://khaaan.com/

ARP studs have an internal hex, but are regular 12-point nuts. The hex's are to help in removal, as they should only be slightly beyond finger tight. No torx are used, so no special tools needed beyond a 12-pt socket(12mm, i believe). Good luck with it. I don't know if the zero psi reading in...

Not necessarily. Is the crack located in the material where two exhaust valve ports join? Better yet- take a pic.

Kinda like what I said, huh?

PS- Your car only has 79,000 miles? Nice.

If you are getting oil streaming back onto the cat, I also suggest you check the turbo's feed and return line gaskets. Mine was leaky, and sent oil all the way down the exhaust. Low oil pressure wouldn't be the result of a steady oil leak, unless you were actually LOW on oil. It is more likely...

What is your fuel pressure set at on the adjustable fuel pressure regulator that you didn't mention you had in the first six posts? Also, please update if you've: repaired the broken FPR vsv replaced the broken o2 sensor checked to see if the J-tube was drilled out If you need to test the cold...

Doh! two step 8's! To be honest, I myself did what you suggest, and got upgraded IC and piping before a bigger turbo. But my excuse is that I swapped my car to turbo, and never had the stock IC components. Plus I wanted a big blingy FMIC.

I believe all the 'grooves' on the cam surfaces is aluminum 'babbit'(?)material, and would come off with a scotchbrite pad- it's not actually grooves or blemishes in the cam material itself. Since you just ordered BC cams, I suggest you look at one of your stock cams and really inspect the...

The cover doesn't have to come off, but I like to have it off, since being even slightly misaligned, can cause the cps to jump back one tooth as you ease it in.