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The timing belt tensioner bolts through the rear timing cover, and to the block. Overtorquing it will actually 'pull on the #1 cylinder wall slightly, causing blowby. As Hvyman also mentioned- you should have had the rear timing cover bolted to the block when it was decked. If it wasn't, then...

Tomorrow, I bring the subframe to work, and will repair and reinforce it.

I admit- ther'e no money wasted in doing it this way, but it doesn't get the car any closer to completion. So without further ado, welcome to stage one! Plans are as follows: REAR: Remove rear subframe Repair cracks and reinforce Install Nylon/ rubber combo spacers Install ES suspension bushings...

***{{{ As of 12/11/2022, THIS THREAD IS NOW REPAIRED. ALL PICTURES HAVE BEEN RESTORED }}}*** Ok. It's been a LONG time since I've had a build thread. On my last thread, I really only got about a 3rd of the way towards my goals. I've owned my '88 na(now turbo) Supra since 1996, and in that...

Are you kidding? I can't believe this thread still exisist, let alone is still getting replies.

I would check to make sure you are getting spark for all 6 cylinders, because that's what it sounds like. And -you are able to swap motors, but don't own a $20 timing light??

If you listen to your video, you can hear the rod knock on the first start. Right around the first time it revs. Sorry to hear that you had to do so much more work to it, but it'll be even better now, when you're done. PS- What pistons are those?

Code 52 is your knock sensor code. I'm pretty sure you'll lose alot of power if you have that. Check both knock sensor plugs on the drivers side of the block, under the intake. One is on the side of cylinder #2, and the other is closer to the #6 cylinder, next to the starter.

I don't really know the answer to this- I would presume that the ecu assumes a high temp, thus disabling the cold start injector, making cold starts somewhat lean.

Actually, Caucasian 7m's can rodknock; It's just call 'cracker rattle'. And Mexican Supra's CAN jump over border fences- That's HOW they get rodknock in the first place. Hitting a fencepost with your oilpan in midair can crush the pickup tube, causing oil starvation, and the ensuing rodknock...

Holy crap. You have no TPS on the engine? Ok. We have to all be on the same page here, with regards to how your engine is set up. You can't tell us" I'm wondering if I have a boost leak- i checked all the lines. Oh- And I'm about to install the 6th piston, would that affect it?" I'm joking, but...

Nah- I think he was saying "7m's suffer from rod knock- big surprise", kinda thing.

Shouldn't really affect mpg terribly, as most of your driving is in closed loop O2 operation. This means that regardless of the psi at the rail(within reason), the injector duty time will be adjusted to keep O2 readings in a normal range. Wide open throttle is where a higher fuel pressure(due...

I think i'd convert it back to a front-engine car. : )

When? Where? (I'll be showing up in an MR2, unfortunately)

When I did my rewire, I actually picked up a set of 90's Forerunner KS's along with their entire wire harness for like 20 bucks. I think they're they exact same model KS as found on the 91-92 Supras, and thus have they later model(nice) plug style. That was around 2004. Never had a code 52 since.

I hear the Illumina's give a really good ride for a street setup. The spring issue is seperate from the shock question. If you're on stock springs, you might want to change to Eibach's, H&R's or something along those lines, for a firmer ride, better transient(side to side) response, better...

Check for continuity between: Shield wire and core on each knock sensor wire There shouldn't be any.

What's an example of a eurograde?

Ok, so...not Tein.