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On the scale of Supra extremes, this is an eleven. ps- Why not just go 1JZ?.....lol- sorry, had to :rofl:

Bingo.

Ive heard them called idiot lights? What is connected to the other end of that light circuit that knows when your oil just isnt 'cutting it' anymore?

Spun bearings arent due to weak fasteners. If you install arp 'suds' in the rods, you will need to have them resized('re-rounded'), because the old studs have to be pressed out, and that can distort the rods. Arp's are always a good idea for the head, and resizing the rods should be done anyway...

Is that melted point right where the harness turns from the last intake runner and heads to the firewall? LOL. Because that's the exact spot where mine looks like that. And on the highway(after about 30 minutes of driving), My car used to pop the efi fuse and shut off. It was resting on that egr...

Sounds good. If I'm off, I will be there.

Very nice car. Interior looks brand new.

I wouldn't be surprised if the CTS just stayed in the juice a bit longer so he could pass by. So, that wouldn't be a ricer flyby...would it be like a, bigmac flyby?

Thanks. Plan for the drivetrain is keep it 7M. My current 7M has been largely bulletproof, so I do have confidence in it. The new motor will be a late model(large rib) 7M block, 7M crank. After the machine work, I'll be fitting it with: Cunningham rods *Wiseco pistons New oil pump and squirter...

Well, that's it for suspension and brakes. I ran out of things to replace or rebuild. Today I finished up the installation of the front suspension arms, hubs, brakes, brake lines, front coilovers, abs sensors, and gave it a very rough alignment, just so that i could roll it around. The only...

The rears are two piece. The front stock units are rubber with a slight lip to the outside, now that you mention it. Thanks, guys. :)

ok...

Looking down at the front upper A arm, should the bushings be installed with the flange to the inside (A), or towards the outside? (B). I'm leaning towards B, but the instruction from ES don't mention it. Thanks.

Got dirty today. Nasty, unbelievably greasy subframe: Cleaned up, painted: And, back in you go. Took no time at all to disconnect the steering shaft and drop the subframe, but it took forever to get the motor mounts to line back up with it upon reinstallation. Ran out of time today...

Welp, got almost nothing done today. I did disconnect the steering rack line from the cooler, unbolted the engine mounts and loosed all the subframe bolts, but I'll wait till tomorrow for the real surgery. All I did today was swap out the rubber bushings for poly's on my new upper A-arms. I felt...

Well, I have an HKS-style manifold, so I have to either get a 40 or 50mm square flange wastegate. So I guess I'll go with the 50. :)

Well, it's all gotta be done eventually. rather than do interior next, I've decided to tackle the drivetrain. Parts I already have: New factory engine harness 680cc drop-in injectors T4 log manifold Cunningham A-beam rods ARP head studs New shimmed oil pump New oil squirter bolts Aluminum...

I live near both, so I don't mind either.

The favorite guilty ground is the one between the #5 and #6 intake runners. Make sure its clean and tight.

So, Thanks to my buddy John, my caliper conversion brackets are finally powdercoated a nice durable flat black: Also, I received my new steering rack today: If the weather's good tomorrow, the plan is: Remove front subframe clean, repaint and reinstall with new rack & pinion, new rack and...