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Well, he said that the website incorrectly listed it as in stock, but they were actually being machined at the time.

Welcome to saturday. Did you get it tested?

Well, i finally heard back, and he said they weren't in stock, so he asked me if i wanted to wait, or refund. I said i'd rather get the refund, so that i could buy a few other items, including a head gasket.

I figure as much, Zach. And that's another reason why i dont mind cancelling my purchase.

Its a good idea, Orion, but that all hinges on me actually receiving the torque plate. I realized about 24hrs after i ordered it, that SIP racing was run by Rich S., whom has had numerous complaints about long wait times and even failure to ship orders. I have tried to call the phone number 4...

That's correct. But it is possible to find shops that have a 2JZ plate.

Listen to JJ. And put in a cat. I used one of these in my exhaust and it cleaned up my numbers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Thunderbolt-Metallic-Catalytic-Converter-High-Flow-Stainless-Steel-/140864264535?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20cc2a1957&vxp=mtr

I don't think there's a "better" choice, just what fits your engine's sensors/ecu. I'm pretty sure a few of the pinouts change, and thus you can't use a yellow plug ecu on a grey plug harness, and vise-versa.

Ah! Forgot you were doing the 2JZ. Nah, it takes a different plate. BUT, a 2JZ plate is alot more common at machine shops than a 7M. A 7M torque plate is about as common as a Chinese 'fro pick.

Well, I was gonna say if you were sending your block out, you could borrow the torque plate, but either way, doesn't sound like you need it.

Well, i dont believe that factory motors were torque plate bored/ honed, but the distortion is very small without it, and isnt as much of an issue with cast pistons and lower power levels. Are you sending a block out for work soon?

Good job. Did you buy a full rebuild kit?

I dont really understand putting a 1jz in a skyline, rather than an rb26 or rb28, unless the rb's are simply unavailable. To me, its like pulling a 351 cleveland out of a mustang in order to fit a 350 chevy motor in it. Either way though, it's a great car. Good luck with the wiring job.

You can fit the washers? Then fit the washers.

Do you mean how detrimental is it Not to use the plate? Not that much. You will usually end up with a slightly out-of-round cylinder without it, and therefore a slight compression loss, and oil consumption, but again, very slight. However, it becomes more of an issue when you go past 500+ hp. I...

Like Radiod said-No Lipp AFM without larger injectors. You'll lean out. Use the turbo with the exhaust, and get an elbow. You will like how it feels, and should get at least 2-3psi for free.

Whatup Cramer?

Welp. I didn't want to spend the money, but I'm going to anyway... Next purchase, torque plate from SIP racing. I just don't want to skimp now, and regret it later.

Lol. Sorry, but two posts ago, you say" Smell something, and it seems to be overheating." Next post is- "Hey everybody- I'm going 1JZ!" LMAO!!! I wonder what happened... ANYWAY, Good looking car, and good luck with the swap.

Are you using new piston rings when you put it back together? Regardless, I might suggest honing the cylinders just a bit, unless the crosshatch is still very visible.