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Congrats on chasing it down.

I'm not familiar with why you'd have to delete the charcoal cannister for a JDM motor, unless the port on the throttle body isn't there? But the ground under the intake is an eyelet-type ground, of a few wires together. It bolts on the inderside of the intake. Where in GA are you located? I'm...

Ah. And you live where? Seriously, there are some people that can live without it, but I still don't see a need to remove it, either.

I think that just went over my head, but i'm ok with that.

The timing belt slipped a tooth, and popped the clutch... what? As for the electrical, Check to make sure the wiring harness grounds are connected- most importantly, the one under the #6 intake runner. If that's off, all kinds of wacky crap can happen.

I bet it was. All my gospel comes from Australia. :)

Wiseco +.020. I cant tell you how i like them yet, but like Dan said, they sure are pretty.

I dunno why anybody deletes the csi. It improves driveability, and in no way hampers performance. And for that matter, why do people delete the egr system? My 500+ hp motor will be retaining everything, including the evap system, ac, fan clutch, and cruise control.

Update, SIP refunded my money, just as promised. And i turned around and sent back half of it for a 2mm mhg. I also sent an order to Arizona performance for the oil supply tube kit. Machinist is working on my block as i type this.

Yeah, i thought you were gonna start it, you co@ktease.

If you're just going for power and not 'wow' factor, i would stick with a single turbo. Way too many plumbing hassles.

Yes, but i believe its only one of the two cams thats different. You said you're going twin turbo- are you using two ct26's?

Well spoken, sir. I respect a man that laughs at himself after a goof. I sometimes have stomach pains from all the laughing i do at myself. When i read this post, i was thinking the same thing as Poodles, as when i reinstalled mine, i tried it upside down as well, and had the interference.

Check your crank pulley. If it loosens up, it will sound exactly like rod knock. And i disagree with just about everybody on the bearing replacement. It will NOT be a gauranteed fix for rodknock. If you pull the old bearings and find a few that are damaged, you still dont know the condition of...

Looking good.

Well, i suppose thats completely true, but the core of mine didn't seem much smaller than the larger random technology cat it replaced. It just didn't possess the oval casing of the former unit. Plus i wanted a metal substrate rather than ceramic, because allegedly, they last a good deal longer...

I ask this, because i recently rebuilt the transmission in my 93 trooper, and every time i took it out of park or neutral, it would die. The engine wouldn't stumble and 'give out', it would shut off. Found out that i had left an external ground wire disconnected, that controlled the internal...

Yeah. I forget who mentioned it recently, but the stock rods are quite well engineered, and were comparable to domestic big block rods. Ive never seen a bent rod or broken rod, unless its because it went through the side of the block due to catastrophic rod knock/ bearing failure first. And...

Does your car run in neutral as well as park?

Plus, if you have forged pistons for a 450hp goal, you dont need to cryo treat. You already have the added strength.