PS- If your O2 sensor is bad, it won't affect cold idle.
Did you ever check your cam(not ignition) timing? That would affect engine idle both cold and warm.
If you do get an afm or tps code, just test them as per the tsrm. It's an easy way to rule them out, or verify them as a culprit.
Check the codes again, see which codes came back, and test those related parts.
And yes, you can test the harness connections; just disconnect the ecu plugs, and run a multimeter's test lead from the sensor plug to the ecu end,
and read the resistances. Obviously, you'll need to temporarily...
I'll have to do this in a couple months.
I think I might start by practicing on a junkyard car, and grabbing a couple spare heater core pipes while I'm trying it.
Good question.
I just took mine apart as well. My seals are in good shape, but i have to remove them for powdercoating.
Have you been able to remove yours without messing them up, Scottie?
Sorry guys-
I don't mean to be so slow with progress on my build.
I haven't had much time to do the sandblasting on parts over at my friend's house, but I'm almost done with that.
All the small parts have been done, like:
engine mounts, throttle body, ps and alt. mounts/adjusters
coolant pipes...
Can't make out the knock you speak of because the video is a constant massive rev.
However, if the knock wasn't present before the timing adjustment, then it's something you touched.
I suggest you check the cam gear bolts and tensioner bolt to verify they are indeed tight.
The ES kit does NOT have a replacement to the spherical bushing, I can gaurantee you that.
This is a new rear oem bushing:
And this is a new oem rear spherical bushing. Wanna make sure you're talking about the right part.
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