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Damnit. Didn't know that. Oh well, problem solved now. I brought my parts to a local place . I paid $150 for a pile of stuff to be done. That's a steep price, but considering that they had to prep all the pieces, and then string them all to wire, it wasn't too bad. Plus, their min. order was...

www.twosrus.com

The head that I was going to run had serious erosion around the water jackets, and I decided to toss it. Like CyFi6 said, make sure the erosion doesn't reach as far as the water jacket seal. The only thing clutch-wise I might suggest is to consider replacing your throwout bearing's conical...

You may be right about the restriction, but initially I won't be going for massive power, just 350-400. If I find that I wanna go higher later, I may have to reconsider the use of the FPD perhaps. But since I'll already be AN6 right to it, it'll just be a matter of swapping out to a different...

LOL. You're the one that referred me there a couple years ago. But no, I didn't get it from them. I realize that the pic of that bolt makes it look like it has a conical washer, but it's actually just a flat washer at the base of a standard, stainless socket head bolt.

Ah yes- absolutely right. I forgot about that detail, and it makes all the difference in the world, because once that washer hits the inner wheel well, it puts a side load on the bolt and wedges it.

I say just put some jumper cables on, turn the key and scream "Check it, BITCHES!" but that's just me. Your mileage may vary.

Yeah, I usually have to tap it out with a hammer.

Holy carbon-dated crap, Batman! Now I understand why you're so ornery. So if the cording thing is hype....you're saying that I have a Gates HYPER BELT. AWESOME! sooo worth the extra money now...

I will send you my sticker for $50. (that's approximately the price difference between racing and standard). ... But for that price I also include a can of blue spraypaint.

Never heard of it happening, but is it possible for you to get a grinder up there with a cutting wheel? Can't imagine it bending without causing a deformity to the upper arm's geometry as well.

Are you talking about the internal seal, because that tends to be the major culprit. If it's oily inside the cover, then that's the one you need to address. Just did my rebuild. See my build thread for all the pics of it, starting at post #269...

Was out of town for a few days, but got a couple of little things in the mail today, including the new bearing for my idler pulley. Pressed that in and now it rolls smoothly. Also got these- BIC poly engine mounts: Picked them up used on Ebay for cheap, from a guy parting out a Supra. Edit-...

PS- I like the seats. I was planning on the same exact color combo for my burgundy interior.

Older than everyone on here except perhaps IJ and JJ Let's just say I have seen a live feed from the moon, and leave it at that, kids. PS- Gates claims that their racing belts are up to 300% stronger than oem. Stronger how? I dunno. I guess in terms of stretch or actual failure point.

That oil around the drain plug looks to have been sprayed there. I would expect it to be the output shaft seal.

Looks really great. Don't get rid of it, though.

"I cant give you a keyboard, but on your deathbed, you will receive total consciousness..."

I would say plan on $50/10hp for the first 25hp, $150/10hp for the next 50, and $300/10hp for anything above that. But to be helpful, just focus on a freeflow intake, freeflow exhaust all the way up to the turbo, and shim the wastegate with 2 washers. That'll bump you from ~210whp to ~250+. And...

I believe that with the '91, you have an actual drain on the underside of the fuel tank. Like A.S. said, drain it, and put fresh in. Also, since you have to replace the valve cover gaskets, drain your oil, and refill while the covers are off. That'll give you the opportunity to pour the oil...