John: Very interesting!
I know some of the Euro Mk3's had them and I'm trying to pin down a Diff failure issue I have here that I suspect is from overheating!
thanks for the reply.
We don't get the Tundra here at all Nick.
I bought a brand new GTE one when I built my motor, I can't remember how much it was exactly but it was expensive.....
I had a new NA one on my old motor but it wasn't going to work well with the 10 blade GTE fan.
I'm not understanding the reasoning behind this Pimp?
They turn at half crank speed are small diameter so don't have a lot of mass and the back side is the base circle of the cam which is needed to operate them.
Mike: LMAO I did say "Old School" didn't I ;)
There are much better and consistant alternatives available today!
I used to use the standard small air regulators for a compressor.
If you look closely I had one mounted to the trans tunnel between the seats in my Datto! (Black knob...
No not at all the port beside it is open to atmosphere (you can connect it to the back of the aircleaner or accordian hose as it can suck crap into the diaphram if you want)
Old school way of doing a boost controller was to plumb a regulator into it and say you had a 10 psi spring you would...
Sorry can't find a pic of the Spring Seat or it's adjusters.
The HKS Standard doesn't appear to use it at all and I can't find an exploded diagram of the Race Gate.
Springs!
Correct!
There is usually a screw with locknut and a stamped tin plate on top of the spring!
That looks like one monster spring though!
(did they say what it's meant to be?)
Jake: LOL as I said there needs to be a serious mockup and measure session done on your motor to get it right it's NOT going to be a bolt together and go sort of thing! ;)
This is a "built" motor as opposed to an "assembled" one!
"Speed Costs How Fast Do You Want To Go"
LOL Worst case is it needs a rebuild!
Well actually worst case would be it develops full blown RK kicks a rod out through the side of the block causing an oil fire and burns to the ground.....
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