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Thought he said he got them back already, and the first pic they were on the car chromed, figured the pic of the car would have the chrome wheels on it but i guess not. :dunno:

is it just me or do they not look chrome in the full car shot? defiantly looks like quality work in the first few pics.

does it happen at speed? or just pulling out of the drive way and sub 10MPH? what are the brackets made of?

maybe heat expansion? was this under hard braking or like backing out of your drive way?

Ah that explains it.

is SCC Suffolk community college? if it is, i don't think that cars there anymore, i just graduated from that school and that program.

Get the Gen2, i have one, works awesome, just takes a little trial and error and getting used to. Then buy a GM 3.5 inch MAF and wedge it in the stock accordion hose or run it just before the throttle body and vent to atmosphere without stalling. Best option for basic upgrades would be the...

Nice looks good. just realized i was looking at the 17X9 and 8's, cant be much heavier though.

i was looking at those same wheels, hows the weight on them?

http://supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=267655

What i dont understand is why grand nationals run like hell with only .8 liter more engine and somewhat more aftermarket support. i dont think theres a single person out there that owns one with some sort of aftermarket part thats running slower then a 12.9. Its roughly the same weight car...

do the accumulator/line pressure mods, you'll be happy you did. my 150k mile stock tranny with only the accumulator mods is holding up to estimated 300rwhp pretty well and breaks my 255 BFG drag radials loose into second every time. If im turning when it hits second under any decent amount of...

By the look of the end of the brake line its a flare fittng. when its tightened, the metal fitting at the end of the line gets pressed to the metal inside the caliper making a seal. Or thats just the way it looks. How did it seal into the stock caliper?

No actually pulling the vacuum line would be a temporary fix because he would have to get out to turn the heat on. :3d_frown: Fixing the door would allow heat when wanted, at the touch of a button and cold air instantly at the touch of a button. Hmm, Sounds like how its supposed to work from...

lol i know IJ but thats what im saying to fix rather then playing with the HCV and still having problems. Also it seems that if the problem is the AMP then it went out when the CC was set to hot so the doors are set for heat, would that also control witch vents the air comes out? cause if it...

He should fix the door because even if he fixes the coolant valve there will still be hot coolant in the heater core when he turns it from hot to cold and it will still be hot air coming out of the vents until the heat is totally removed from the heater core. therefore fixing the coolant valve...

but hes still playing with the heater vsv and coolant flow valve, if the doors not working you found the problem. He should check that out rather then play with the vsv and heater control valve

be sure to grind off the galvanizing before welding, the fumes are quite toxic.

There should be a door in the Heater box that covers the heater core, therefore if there is still hot coolant in the heater core the air would not be traveling threw the heater core to transfer the heat into the cabin. Forget about checking to see if that coolant valve is working, even if its...

well really the only added benifit besides pressure capability is that its much more resistant to abraising because of the outer layer of SS. Personally, i wouldnt use braided stainless when theres cheaper alternatives that are much easier to work with. Braided line is used for nitrous lines...