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If you took at a roughly 1.25 inch diameter pipe and cut it in half lenth wise so your left with two half circular pieces of aluminum, it has something to that extent welded into the top on either side. ill grab a picture later.

18RG!!!:biglaugh: If it makes you feel better think of your self as someone correcting mis information rather then standing up for the 7m. :biglaugh::biglaugh: Cool idea guys!

Cliffs: Bought the car a long time ago, Got it painted, Drove it for a year with rod knock, rebuilt it, ran 13.8 at E-Town, took it back apart and ran out of money till 3 years later ending up here now. Today i pulled the car around to the front yard to ready the install of the motor and tranny...

No worries, IIRC the stock gauge doesn't have temperature on it, only a "H" and "L", or something to that effect depending on Pre or Post 89. I would imagine the middle of the gauge is normal operating temperature, if thats the case, i really only see the issue of the bulging hose, witch would...

Don't worry, Being a former (Thank God) GM tech myself, i think we would both agree with GM bieng "Cheezy" on numerous occasions. :biglaugh::biglaugh: Oilpan leaks are terrible, Toyota FIPG is amazing stuff though, use at least something as good as that. I havnt experimented much as i know how...

You said "Something is stopping the flow", Does the water pump not create "flow" in the cooling system? Would that not mean that you are suggesting that the hose is bulging due to pressure build up because the thermostat is stopping the flow that is created by the water pump? I figured that...

How about posting the question and answer for everyones benefit?

I would HIGHLY doubt the water pump could create pressure in the cooling system, if that were true when the engine was cold (thermostat closed) it would bulge hoses. Problem is pressure, caused by either a bad radiator cap, or if the thermostat is sticking and the coolant is beginning to boil...

No worries, Wasn't correcting anything you posted, just adding information. :)

Middle of the gauge is most likely normal, i have a separate gauge so i never really payed attention to stock. Hows your radiator cap? Check level of overflow cold and hot, any hoses collapse when cold?

mount it to a speaker and run an audio test sweep and tone around 7khz and look for a voltage spike.. Unless IJ has already done something similar, witch of course wouldn't surprise me. :biglaugh:

Yea i was pretty sure that was it, just wanted to make sure. Ive herd of a few people not being able to find it, but i have seen it at every auto parts place around.

I believe, and i could be wrong, that the w58 and r154 use different Clutch slaves, one is a push and one is a pull. Most likely same master, but the slave i believe is different.

Idle Spec is 4.3psi idle (650rpm idle), and 30-71psi at 3000 RPM. As per TSRM As for oil recommendation, German Castrol Syntec 0-30 is among the highly recommended and is also easy to source. I believe the bottle look like this, anyone verify? Reason i ask is it says European formula not...

Im unsure, i bought it last month, and im unsure the difference.

MAF is technically more accurate as it doesn't rely on a VE table to calculate airflow., MAP seems to be the chosen path of most, but i think its also because finding a MAF that wont restrict the intake can be harder to come by/expensive. Though with modern computer systems i think difference...

Heres a mishimoto fin spacing.

Buy a real oil pressure gauge and post your oil pressure at idle and at 3000rpm. Flooring it has nothing to do with oil pressure. RPM and bearing clearance as stated previously are the only factors besides heat and oil viscosity.

Ill be using the T-12 4.5" when the time comes. :)

Looks awesome, i disagree about flat black, i think it looks awesome if done right.