Thanks, So far the manifold was done with exactly 50 feet of 1 inch thick wrap. I guess the way i did it worked out perfect. Just today i got in another 50 foot roll of 2 inch thick to finish up the collector area of manifold and wrap the downpipe. I also have the same brand 2000 degree silicone...
Im running aluminum lines with a union in the middle for ease of installation and repair. Thats what its going to take.
You have an a1k right? Braided line to the rail? Thats alot less fittings, but more money overall for the line.
Pic of it aranged how its going to be set up, The "Extra...
Those fittings are all connected to each other, this is what they look like apart. This is what 257.71 in fittings looks like. The braided sections were another 56.90, Plus 41.90 for aluminum tube ($356.51), Plus AFPR & Gauge, flare tool, Pump and shipping. Yay!
Christ thats a mess, i couldnt imagine the feeling if i found the person that did something half like this to my car.
Whats your "N" and theres no question if you pissed someone off, you did. Maybe you didnt realize it but this is not something you just do randomly, Thats serious.
May i ask why blue and red?
I cant really picture my harness as its for standalone and connected in various places. Its pretty much permnently in the car unless i cut it out, but its fit is perfect and im not planning on selling or anything anytime soon. But i wrapped it with black loom and...
HUGE PROGRESS! Its in, its running, Stock Pump took a dump. Installed a walbro.
After i got it running i made a nice 3 to 3.5 inch downpipe, followed by a 3.5 inch to 4 inch exhaust. Bought a 4 inch magnaflow muffler to finish it off.
After making the exhaust it became apparent...
Im going aluminum -8 feed and -6 return lines as its MUCH cheaper then braided stainless. But even still i have about 200 dollars in hose ends and fittings to make it work along with 6 foot section of -8 and -6 braided to make flex sections to the motor and fuel tank.
Over all budget fuel...
Turn the key on and check voltage from the Ground on the ECU to the chassis.
Then check voltage from the Battery + Terminal, to the B+ terminal on the ECU.
Both should read Zero. If anything above .1-2 volts you found the problem.
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