BA: Cos they're STUPID ;)
Early Mk3 mounts are pretty good and take a HUGE amount of power before they tear off and a simple Tq strap would solve that issue 100% without the vibration and harshness of solids.
Running a rubber mount at the trans and solids at the front just doesn't make...
Aaron: They weren't available here and I really don't want a soft tire due to the amount of KM's I do each weekend playing.
The Trac in the Motec should sort that issue ;)
SS5: You can unpreload the actuator so there is the barest pressure on the flapper, doing this will give you the very minimu that the gate can supply and an MBC can't change this.
It will cause Lag as the gate will blow slightly open with any boost, a better alternative would be a part...
If I was trying to fix the head I wouldn't use a Hone I'd just work on the Gouge area with a machinists scraper.....
By the Time the hone spins around going DOK DOK DOK over the gouge and finally stops DOKKING away you'll have removed far too much material from the Diamater and the Bucket...
Not done properly removing it can cause Vaccum in the tank and reduce/stop flow.....
Our cars are a system and it's important to understand how each parts interacts with the rest of the car BEFORE modding.....
Something I posted over there ;) <pointing at SF>
Not wanting to start shit but these Bars are 9 parts useless in our cars...
(thanks to SR49 for the great pic)
Shock load/force is along the blue line as our cars are double A Arm suspension so there are minimal side loads/forces being...
Push the Clutch in Crank motor = trashed Thrust bearings and Crankwalk :(
(with an aftermarket clutch)
Dunno about the remote it all depends on what safeties it needs, the Tremec I just pulled out has a proper Neutral Switch in it for the USA market.
(none of our cars had the clutch switch...
Ok at extremes I towed a light load 900 KM's and it didn't suck too much extra fuel and I bought a 1000 KG/2200 Lbs Milling machine home using the Supra :)
It did it easily.
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