3>4 heat cycles with NO BOOST, by heat cycles I mean get it up to full running temp (go for a drive) and let it cool to stone cold = 1 heat cycle.
Then do the retorque by "back cracking" 1 nut then pull it back to torque.
(you'll know what I mean by "back crack" when you pull the wrench the...
Mazz: You use a small smear of Silicone where the Timing case meets the Block and that's it :)
(After trimming the gasket that sticks up with a sharp scraper)
JJ Is talking about the Ignition curve at 4000 not the static timing Chris.
Sorry but going by your answer you have a limited understanding of how the system works and it might be better to leave it alone before you "improve" it to the point it doesn't run correctly.
Mine @ 97Db would Kill birds in flight make small children scream and cry and shatter Bricks in walls under boost ;)
I HATED it and it was only a matter of time before I was defected..
A lot depends on the shop doing the seals as well.....
If the valves have been tipped and the sharp edge not removed before fitting the new seals it can slice the Lip off the seal and it's useless (might stop bugs climbing down inside but WON'T stop oil)
They're meant to use plastic...
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