SB: The headbolts get a really bad rap when in reality they're quite good quality stock.
If a bolt has been pulled past it's TTY value you can usually see signs, as I said on a high HP build yep new hardware is essential but on an NA it's not really necessary (other than peace of mind).
Isnms: This is why I always suggest to check that TDC is actually at 0 on the damper as our cars get older it's becoming a more common issue.
<fingers crossed> It hasn't trashed the Crank Snout.
The ATI Dampers go on DAMN TIGHT so you might get away with it if the Snout is damaged.
LT80: Then a Torsen is for you!
No drag when turning tight radius no understeer in tight corners all adds to better fuel mileage :)
Colin: I have one sitting in my spare parts shed but shipping would suck due to the weight!(you need the stub axles so it's easier to source a complete...
I had a seeping heater core a few months back it's a PITA to repair but worth doing it right once it's out.
Mine wasn't wetting the Carpet it was just the occasional smell like you describe.
Monki: <fingers crossed> that the Copper doesn't split at the dowels (it should be soft enough to stretch when the dowels get hot and expand)
This sometimes happens with normal MHG's.
Only times I wouldn't reuse the headbolts are if I knew they've been overtorqued (if they have been there's a good chance the head is junk) or if the threads are erroded or if it's a high HP turbo build.
Landtoy: Depends on you use for the car and driving style but you might consider the 4.10 T1 Torsen from a JZA70.
They won't stand up to drag launches but I've used one at 550rwhp without breaking it and they're SO much nicer to drive than an LSD.
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