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http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/TechTips/vacuum_gauge_readings.aspx Depends on your altitude. I saw around -14psi being over 6,000 ft in west Denver before I rebuilt the engine. Before I moved, I was at 700 ft and saw -19psi.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=29

I would just buy a used one in your case. $100 is about the norm for a decently shaped CT26 that will give you something to drive till you get supporting mods. Hell, it'll save you money if you decide to upgrade it later compared to your cracked one.

There's a GT4088 powered 1JZ Targa in Denver for real cheap (owner wants $5500 I believe). It's an 89+ white though. Edit: I took pics of it today.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=55

You just had to flip a few pages to find the codes, http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=26

That's the same one i'm running for my full flow. I ended up mounting it between my huge intercooler and radiator. It holds just shy of 1 quart of oil.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=FI&P=23

Pressure plate?

That's where the oil pump hard line attaches to the block.

You'll be choking it with the intake. Holsets are journal bearing (for the most part) and can withstand up to 65psi of oil pressure I believe. The stock oiling system is "safe" (for the turbo, not safe for mod'd 7M's) because of the 40psi reliefs. I switched to a thermostat full flow for...

Ditto

Yes, you can buy stock replacements in 020 and 040 over and the respective size will be stamped on the dish. The person who asked for an under picture asked you because most aftermarket pistons stamp the manufacturer on the bottom side of the dish which would end the guessing game.

Specs on said cutlass? :evil2:

I picked mine up off craigslist for $200 cash and zero shaft play way back when.

There are two wires that go to the starter; the first is the starter signal wire that connects to the spade terminal and the other wire should be the negative from the battery I believe. Check the starter for both wires.

I believe it bolts to the starter.

Maximizing his chances is not worth skimping out on doing it right. I prefer leaving nothing to chance on these engines. Slap on a stock gasket and ARP studs or shell the money to deck both surfaces to an acceptable RA for the MHG and add ARP studs.

I was also thinking of picking up a 6-blade HX-40 and swapping in a smaller a/r than the 18cm housing i.e. http://www.htturbo.com/thnew.htm

I figured that's what you meant. Yeah, I snapped some awesome photos for you...and also some photos of the turbo/manifold haha.