Pretty much so they beefed up the Late blocks but not nearly enough if you're shooting for sustained 4 figure outputs.(even for intermittent use it's sketchy)
LOL "new" 7M blocks aren't really new now are they ;)
There's minimal movement in a new block compared to a "green" block (one that's a few months to a year old)
No matter how good or seasoned a 7M block is it's still a big long wet noodle.
Fluid coupling(Tq Converter) slips so there's no direct connection.
it "might" wear the clutches in the trans a little more as you're at 0 throttle so there's minimal line pressure and they'll slip as well.
Rich: I think I'd be more comfortable with a one piece Steel Main Cap and Girdle assembly and maybe L19 hardware throughout if I was going for 1krwhp sustained.
Add to that Dry Sumping with a dedicated Vacc pump for the crankcase to pull vacc at all times.
As I said earlier I see a LOT of...
NOT 12mm...... :nono:
5mm max and it's in the relief valve on the Oil pump inside the Pan.
On a GTE there's a 2nd one in the Cooler Bypass valve that needs to be shimmed the same amount. (some NA's have this as well on a block fitting)
My Motor is built much the same as Gary's motor in his rail so in theory "could" make 1000hp with the right supporting mods.
Would I try it?
HELL NO!
I know how much stress and deflection there is in a 7M at a sustained 500rwhp and I consider Rich's "list" to be a nice starting point...
If someone asked me to spec a 1000hp 7M first thing I'd do would be ask to see some bank statements and wage slips so I could be sure they're NOT a dreamer and wasting my time..... :nono:
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