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Yeah, the MKIII will push, but I tend to hit the brakes in the corner to transfer weight.. once the ass went out it would hook violently throwing the car the other way... Swaybars where the single best upgrade I've done to the manners of the car. I haven't even gone after bushings or a good...

don't run lucas with the MT-90 will it do this free-reving, or only under load?

MT-90 can be bought online at summitracing... it's not cheap (around $50 for the fill), but it's not like you change it every 3000 miles...

yep, looks fine... follow the TSRM to the LETTER on assembling that hub...

you overtorqued the timing belt idler pulley more than likely... overtorque the bolt, and it will deform the first cylinder enough to drop compression. tighten to 36lbs

mini's do it automaticly, as do a lot of luxury cars...

I'd rock it...

oh trust me, there's worse... can't remember the name of the car, but I'm looking, it was nicknamed the frog as well...

the fork is a very heavy duty piece... personally, I don't think a 3200lb PP belongs on a car...

you can put those on the back as well... that was my point on camber for drag...

bboyRITUS: encryption, and stop using the default ports...

I know my coolant system is fine, the waterfall sound ONLY happens when it's not on 85 degrees on the CC... it's like when the valve closes a bit it causes cavitation...

was your timing belt done recently?

:bsflag:

you guys are stalling, stop saying "next year" and just come down... I might have to make use of this hole for a nitrous nozzle in my IC pipes... But who's gonna tow me back home? LOL

supra more than likely had more torque, just a bit up the RPM band... little lag never hurt anyone...maybe a few egos though...

and thanks to you, they support our car... stock springs, KYB shocks, whiteline adjustable swaybars on soft at both ends, stock wheel size (in old enkei racing wheels so a whole lot lighter), with Kumho ECSTA SPT's in the stock sizes and I run circles around most people... the swaybars...

true dat... but the first thing he should do is STOP DRIVING IT. diagnose the problem and go from there, as driving it in that kind of condition is just asking for a warped head, BHG, and eventual rodnock from contaminated oil...

looks fine IMHO as there should be a cup on there to keep most of the dirt out... dunno how hard it would be to take it off an old driveshaft... I'm not a big fan of 1-piece driveshafts though...

which is what we have... granted, it will do a little, but swaybars, bushings, coilovers, ect will do a hell of a lot more...