Search results

Removing the drain bolt is the hardest part. I had to stick a wrench on it and use a jack to push up on it to break it loose. And I was the one that tightening to stock specs before...

Break in on a clutch isn't just for the material and the disk, it's for the PP and flywheel surfaces. If you're too hard on it they will overheat.

ALL the parts in the world are worthless without a good tune. Don't cheap on the tune and get the best person you can to do it.

If you can actually find it in the EPC (I looked for 30 minutes and couldn't) I made it with a heavier gauge wiring and even shrinkwrapped the assembly, works great. I'll take pics when I can...

stock alarm is pissed at you it sounds... Keep in mind I have a brand new wiring harness and absolutely ZERO hacked connections in my engine bay. Most supras aren't like that these days, and water will cause havoc...

Compression test won't show that the valve stem seals are gone... You wouldn't IMAGINE the mess that was left in my head from the valve stems actually falling apart to the point there was just the metal casing left...

Stock airbox is a pain in the ass when the accordian hose is NEW, it's damn near impossible when it's old and hard. Good luck, and if you have the cash, get a different design (I like Apex'i)

are you sure they don't fit? I am only aware of SMALLER stock brakes that where available in other parts of the world, not larger...

I try and pound it into people's head... This is important stuff!! If one of those bolts sheered off I dunno what would have happened. It's safety folks!

Did you break them trying to remove them, or where they already broken? Once the stress of the head of the bolt is off them, they usually come right out if you can get a grip on em...

Once it's cut, it likes to sag and look odd... Keep it IMHO...

Could it be the regulator as well? After reading about some guy having his alternator catch on fire internally, when the three lights on my dash started coming on every so often, I got a new one ASAP... Didn't want to jump to conclusions and post that first, but I'd check it out...

I've gotta search for it, but I've seen pics of cracked porsche rotors before. I stand by my views that it's a "fad," much like huge heavy wheels that decrease performance. The auto makers build what people want. NASCAR uses slotted as does quite a few other racing bodies...

Yes, it's a common problem on ANY car with a rack and pinion as they have rubber mounts. The rubber gets saturated in oil and starts to break down. Poly won't do that.

I know for experience: friction modifiers + R154 = GRIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIND

*sigh* Too much disinformation. You could put the largest turbo you wanted on there and it wouldn't hurt a damn thing since you have no tuning device or other way to get around fuel cut! If the turbo is working fine, leave it, if it's in need of a rebuild (like so many are) it's usually...

I wash my engine bay all the time, no issues here... Don't DUMP water in that area for starters, and if you have the proper plug wires and a good center gasket, it seals VERY well.

I really like my Action Stage 3 from Driftmotion... I never have any noise from it really, but if the RPS are too low it will shudder a bit.

A good session of boosing get VERY hot, even at the exhaust tip...

it's not the fact that there isn't enough room, it's that you use a copper gasket with it that isn't as durable in the long run (coolant is usually the issue) not worth the time unless you're going for huge power, and people do that on normal MLS gaskets...