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I have a spare! Ask hks trd how much they are.lol

lol thanks Ian, shame it doesn't go like yours to boot.

took a new pic so i thought i'd update.The car is now cleaner than ever and i have it in my shed ready for next weekend when it will be fitted with the new engine, will be street tuned till i get a chance to go over to the coast and get it dynoed.

I wonder if your part number is the same?

Are you talking about swapping the map sensor for a 2jz one? that's not very clever considering they are both 5.0v and will hit boost cut the same level. Do a search on toymods australia, it's been tried, tested and proven false. http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?p=606817

Sweet build:thumbup: i love the exhaust manifold, that's some quality work right there.The turbo should should spool very well indeed, please post up dyno sheets once done, i'm hanging to see where it comes on strong.

$200 bucks prizemoney? that's some good incentive there guys.:sarcasm:

Pretty ordinary comment! i've seen stingers wreck motors cause they weren't tuned right, can't blame the ecu just the tuner or the engine.The map ecu is great if it's used for the correct purpose, For example my latest car was previously tuned with a map ecu and ran great got good fuel economy...

I'd drag race mine but i don't like getting it dirty. :biglaugh:

heaps of v8 owners are doing the head grooves and some claim to get more hp from it but no one seems to have any accurate before and after data.

No you don't need bigger valves, the stocko ones have been pushed well over 600hp before and the fact you have a tight budget it wouldn't make sense. Before making any rash judgments on the head get it checked out by a machinist who will test it and can weld up any corrosion that may have gone...

Sometimes you can have a coolant leak from the h/gasket into the cylinder and it does a great job of cleaning the head and the piston.

Cylinder head grooving sounds like a load of crap.

The pistons all depend on where the crank is sitting at the time..doesn't' mean anything. Good to see you got the bolt out without using any extreme measures.

yeah matey use a drill bit similar size to the shaft, just big enough to drill the head of the bolt off. If you do it slowly but with plenty of pressure and a good bit you'll make hardly any mess at all. I recommend a pilot hole with a thin drill bit first.

If your drilling steel its better to drill at low speed anyway, and lets face it the whole head will need the valve stem seals done anyways ,the previous guy wouldn't have done it right going off your current situation. So you may as well pull the valves and give them a regrind while your head...

well your not going to reuse the headbolts so i'd just drill the head of the bolt off and once the head is removed clamp onto the bolt shaft with a pair of vice grips.Never known anyone to round off a head bolt, he must have had the wrong sized hex key.:nono:

lol whenever i hear NOS it reminds me of that movie.

NOS is a mythical gas that's supposed to turn the standard ma70 into a mark 4 so were all scared to use it.

Once you find out what pistons you want to use and the machinist has shaved the head and the block to a mirror finish(no raised edges) look for a suitable size metal headgasket to achieve you final compression target. Purchase some arp's while your at it, (either head studs or head bolts)...