I'm pretty certain that the ECU stores enough power to set a code 11 if it loses power. Should be easy to check though, fire it up, pull the EFI fuse while it's running, then plug it back in and check for codes.
Of course, the usual disclaimer applies - I have NO clue what sort of carnage this...
Mine is a total POS. I put a 60-1 ct upgrade on it, pushed the boost to 20psi, and the pile of crap only stood up to it for 6 months. I mean, seriously, I'm sure that a JZ series engine would have taken the same abuse forever. And I could have revved the JZ engine further, too! :D
Smoking is bad. Noises are worse. The rear end locking up when you pop the clutch is *the* worst. This means the engine is toast - usually siezed rather badly at the least. :(
The rebuild is pretty awesome - still running off the wastegate spring so far, no boost controller yet. I'm pretty sure that the turbo is a 60-1, it looks like the photos posted over on SM, same number of blades on the compressor side, and the walls on the housing are awfully thin.
In any...
Turbo-Joe, I just gave you access.
Please keep in mind that anything you add right now *might* not get saved... so save a local copy of the pictures and text descriptions you use, please. One of the possible problems with getting in early on a beta! :)
Before you go and try the fuel filter, however... what you have sounds more like boost leak, which would explain why the screw makes little difference. Have you checked your intercooler pipes for cracks, and your couplers for splits?
By the way... not to ressurect the arguement, but the JDM turbo engines did not all have squirters. IIRC, Suze's doesn't, for example.
A couple other things... it's my personal opinion that virtually all cases of rod knock come from oil starvation from two things - low oil or plugged oil...
From what I understand, the difference between regular power steering fluid and Dexron is viscosity, detergent level and dye... lubrication is supposed to be very similar.
Err... you put the clutch on the tranny before you lift it up into place. Then slide it into place, bolt up the bell housing to the block, and reach through the inspection plates to put in the six bolts holding the pressure plate to the flywheel.
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