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Where that ground goes is where the line for the stock BOV comes up through the head (it's actually a stud, looks like 92nsx has it routed another way). Best place to put the boost gauge tie in is where the factory one is, off the back of the manifold.

The original gear isn't crimped in as many places as the replacement gear is, guess they noticed it as being a problem...

You CAN NOT install ARP studs that way. The stock bolts only use half of the threads in the block, the studs have to go all the way in and on the two blocks I have they WON'T unless you run a tap down them to clean em out. Wasn't the new torque supposed to be 76ft/lbs? (only reason I...

lower mounts will need to be made, but the top mount looks like it goes into the hood latch support..

RPM signal from the CPS might work, or from the ignitor. Yes we have a cruise control switch on the clutch pedal. The exact details you'll need will have to come from someone with more knowledge (like jetjock).

Yep, correct, that why I kinda doubt it's true, but it does make a god aweful racket...

have one in the garage somewhere, but nothing to accurately measure with...

Tanya FTW!!

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66443 is the thread for Raptor Racing's exhaust stuffs...

Oh no, not arguing ;) People used to say it was valve float if you bogged the engine like that, not sure on how true that is, but it's definately audible...

Pilot bearing is in the crank :D The throwout bearing assembly is a million times easier with the proper tools (which i bought from sears). Normal snapring piers break, you need lock ring pliers. And it MUST be assembled EXACTLY as show in the TSRM or it will fail.

they're crimped on, you'll need a new pulley and IIRC it was like $45 from the dealer (only place to get it)

WoS!!!!

Check the pilot bearing, if it's fine leave it alone... It's too much damn work to remove if it's fine, and you don't have the time.

Stock wires, go to dealer or get em online from Champion (or call em). Can also get stock plugs from them as well for pretty cheap usually. Raptor Racing has their own vendor section on this forum.

Ha, found a picture of the kit, they show up on ebay every once in a while, only one for the pre-89 that I know of and best looking IMHO (except the top grill piece)...

With his mods he's fine with a stock heat range... I personally run platinums cause I hate changing plugs (like with coppers), and iridiums MUST be gapped (but you're told not to, and they break easily) as they are all over the board in their gap out of the box. The plug wires, well, let's...

Also, CRE, you can hear when the engine is loading (hell, watch the boost gauge), so I'll downshift. After all the mods I've done my car will pull from idle pretty easily, it's why I always say people of full of shit when they say they lost low end power putting exhaust on their car...

Thanks, was trying to think of the right terms, that's why I posted the pic ;)

Disregard most of what the mechanic says from now on :rofl: The only issue I can see if that you're supposed to burnish the threads by torquing to spec 3 times, dunno if a stock headgasket would take that... Also remember you'll have to run a tap through the holes in the block (all the way...