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Okay, so I finally figured out the issue with my A/C compressor's clutch not kickin' on. Seems that the ECU is no longer supplying the ACMG signal. I wired it up, like the pic below. I have searched and searched and not found the original thread talking about doing it this way. Since it's...

You can remove all of the ones that are on the twins assembly, as well as a couple of others located elsewhere. When I removed the excess wiring from my harness, I had marked all of the connectors which were no longer used (as I removed the harness from the engine), then removed them and the...

There have been several different fixes that have worked for similar symptoms. TRD87T went thru all the usual troubleshooting/changes and finally fixed by replacing a clogged/restricted fuel line (maybe the dampner too). Others have replaced capacitors in the ECU, coolant temp sensor, and...

Okay, so I am using the wiring config shown in this pic below, with my Aristo ECU... I had accidentally disconnected the 2 wires shown, over the Winter. I dunno if they made contact with anything. At this point, cigarette lighter is not working and the a/c magnetic clutch is not engaging...

Dang... Been too long since I've seen a 7M. I could've sworn that when I blew up my 7M N/A, I kept and re-used the electronics in the GTE I bought afterwards. I think I have a couple of 7M ignitors in a box somewhere (dunno why I still have 'em). I'll take a closer look and post the pic &...

No difference for the 7M... Definitely a difference on newer-gen motors

Basically, look for a loose vacuum line and replace the plugs if you've had them for awhile. The vacuum line that came loose on mine was in the center of the intake manifold, near the PCV valve, covered up by a few other things and made it hard to see it. I am sure that I popped the line and...

Amazing!! I had code 42 yesterday, bouncing idle, and rich exhaust/gas. Replaced the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV), reset ECU, and found a loose vacuum line. Still had the Fing issue, but without a code and not-so-much-bouncing idle. Replaced the plugs (used Champion $1.99 ones, they were...

You need to take a pic, but further back. I can't tell the orientation, or part in the pic. Remove some leaves first? The front subframe bolts on my 91, were either 17mm or 19mm. The rear subframe had a couple of different sizes. Maybe 17 or 19, and 14mm for the forward bolts.

I gave in and bought some FiberFlex from Urethane Supply Company... I have 30 feet/flat-sticks. I'll have to check and see how many it takes to fill the nose emblem and let ya'll know how many I will have left to sell (pro-rated, of course). Weather looks good over the next few days, so I'll...

I would suggest these things, in order... 1. Replace/Rebuild Brake Master Cylinder. - Still not fixed? 2. Replace/Rebuild calipers. The rebuild kits for all of the above, should be less than $50. Rebeuilding them is VERY easy and let's you REALLY see what's going on inside there...

Yeah, I am thinking thru a few options. The hatch doesn't close quite right without pushing down on it, so I am worried that I may end up cracking the spoiler at some point. So, I will add some spacers/washers to lift it up slightly, as well as use a different C-clamp so that I can reinstall...

Stock spoiler was easy enuff to remove... Took about 15 minutes to remove. Installation of the new one, took about 15 minutes.

Found it... ackits.com. Running a stock-sized PF condensor w/my 2J and no overheating/cooling issues at all, using 2J mechanical fan/clutch. Hope it helps.

Also interested in the same thing. Was planning to swap spoilers tomorrow, but can't find anything on removing the 3-piece spoiler. Last time I tried to remove a side-piece on another Supra, I cracked it. I want to be able to swap the spoilers from time-to-time, so want to keep everything...

I had a parallel flow condensor made for mine. It's a replacement for the stock one. If you want to go smaller, there are other universal options available. You want to go with a parallel flow for efficiency... especially if you need to go with a smaller one. The stock one is a serpentine...

The brake master cylinder rebuild kit is less than $20 from any auto parts, $46ish from Toyota for the MKIV. Easy to install and I think the TRSM covers it. I have rebuilt brake master, clutch slave/master, cylinders and done them in less time than the trip to the auto parts. Good luck!

Lots of different opinions on the topic... For ~$18 for an OEM replacement, available immediately from any auto parts store, I'd go with that (Knowing that I will not wait another 100K miles, before changing again). The cost, whether ~$18 or ~$38, is negligible if you will wait 2, 5, or10...

With my 2JZ, I also have 1 small port which I am using a vacuum cap on. I bought a 2nd coolant pipe, so that I can chop that piece off and have it welded shut. I've also thought about pressing/squeezing it shut, then using some of that metal stuff that you can mold together to fill/close it...

Here's what I put together for the Aristo's body plug on the engine harness. Disregard my notes, just understand that it is 4 different SMALL connections (C, D, E, F), ported into 1 BIG connector/connection. The signals for each pin have been verified to be accurate by other members, so...