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I have had an issue with mine (code 14)... found that when i move/hold the harness/connectors at the dash, the code comes and goes. I think there might be an issue with some wire not making a "complete" connection or a short within the plastic connectors. I have undone and redone the...

Eibach springs... predictable, no sagging, just the right drop, not expensive, and ride like a MFer... Using Tokico non-adjustables and poly bushings all around. Love the way it looks (I've used with 17" and 18" wheels), handles, and just feels good when driving (bumps too ;-)

Easiest thing to do is to put a bolt into the hole and make sure that the bolt goes in far enough to not "bottom out" when the slave cylinder is attached. Good luck!

On a dyno at 356 HP... HKS old-school Sport dual-tip muffler... it's about 4.5MB wmv file... lots of dyno/non-muffler noise (sorry). http://www.g099521.net/pics/356hp.wmv

I have Dynamat throughout mine and was able to tell that the drivetrain noises are alot more noticeable... Especially if there's some sloppiness in the tranny/driveshaft/LSD. My driveshaft/center carrier bearing and tranny were Fed up. Replaced both and a new clutch, now is much...

I have another set of 18's in Hypersilver... They are used/rashed here and there... I can let you borrow one while you wait on a backordered one (once you've placed the order). I was able to get a similar single wheel from one of the EBAY sellers awhile back (seller - SGmotoring)... Good luck!

Didn't say that... Don't be so sensitive (sorry, I guess?). In my 3+ lowered MKIIIs, I've had good alignments as long as the supporting suspension was good. Have not re-welded anything, 'cept a cracked rear subframe in the 87T after I got to Texas. I AM NOT speaking for other's...

^^Exactly. Don't let them give you that "lowered" BS. On my 91 (using Eibach springs and Tokico struts), after replacing all of the suspension bushings, the front aligned great. The rear had some issues, until I replaced the rear subframe bushings. On my 87T, there in Florida... same...

It got rid of the sloppyness in the rear and dips/bouncing causing one side of rear tires to rub. I already had the poly suspension bushings and Eibach/Tokico combo. After the SF bushings, very tight in the handling of the rear... Well worth replacing, if it's your daily driver (mine is a...

^^Didn't think of that, thanks... Starts at post #98, in this thread. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?89326 I was a bit intimidated before starting, not having pics or tips, etc. So, provided what I went thru in the process and suggestions. Please feel free to improve...

The Tacoma connectors/pigtails fit the 1JZ & 2JZ knock sensors... Just reminding ya'll, in case anyone's re-used the 7M ones on their JZ blocks (Urbano used to configure the harnesses to use the 7M ones). I dunno that there are replacement connectors/pigtails for the stock 7M knock sensors.

There is a Toyota Special Service Tool (SST) that is available to plug it with. Dunno that I'd go through ordering it and all that. I'd just work on other stuff while you wait for the driveshaft, to do this step.

I had some of these little nylon deals left over from an assortment box (Autozone) and pushed them in and used the original screws. Works much better than I expected. If you can "try" one 1st, you can figure out the right size to get, if you need more than the "few-of-right-ones" that come in...

^^Should. The basics are the same for most of the signals/wires are standard in most cars. There will be a handfull of wires you do not use... Like extra triggers or output for accessories, etc. As far as pre-89, even the wire colors should be the same. You can always, doublecheck the colors...

Pages 10 & 11... http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?89326-GB-MK3-Front-amp-Rear-Subframe-Poly-Bushings/page10 Good luck!

I found that the easiest way to access the KSs without removing the intake, was to reach them from the front of the car... Still not the most comfortable, but will save you the 90+ minutes to remove/replace the intake. Basically the are high up on the side of the block and if you remove the...

I switched ECUs and all worked as it should. Problem is, the spare ECU is bad in other ways. Throws codes 22, 27, 31, and 41 (even when you plug it in and haven't started the engine yet... crazy). However, it worked enough to start/run the engine and A/C... However, with the ghost codes and...

^^I can't find the original thread or what the pros/cons are to just hooking the brown wire back together. I need A/C soon and the capacitors I ordered aren't here yet, to hopefully fix the ECU. Basically, the way I have it hooked up going through the ECU, is not working. What can I do to...

....any reason why I shouldn't just reconnect the brown wire? At least to re-charge the A/C until I swap the ECU?

Check the Cig and gauge fuses in the driver's kick panel and the A/C fuse in the passenger kick panel. Then, go to Page AC-2 in the TRSM and follow the troubleshooting steps that are listed. You may need a set of A/C manifold guages, if the first few things don't fix or help diagnose things...